Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Dyno and Drag New king of the hill!

This may an obvious question, but why would anyone think the knock sensor is seeing "false knock" and how do you know it is false. Seems counter - intuitive to me.....

Could it simply be doing what is was calibrated to do?????

Because most heavily modified engines are noiser than stock engines, the knock sensor detects false knock. Some people wrap the knock sensor in a rag or something or move it to a quieter place, but if you know you have a good tune and use good gas then you don't really need it.

Or you can just be like ford and randomly choose which engines get knock sensors. I've worked on 3 duratecs (2 2.5's and one svt 2.5) that haven't had them and never even had the wireing on the harness for one.

BTW: Nice numbers Rick I hope you have that supercharger figured out so we don't see another one rip itself apart. I'll eventually get a turbo for one of my 3L's but I just bought a house so I'll have to wait a few months until we get settled in.

Still looking for another set of oval port heads so keep me in mind when you find some.

Keyser -
I understand - but again I would be careful with doing that. The knock sensor cal is not very robust to begin with and it has difficulty seeing all of the cylinders - especially #4 - which is usually the hottest one of all.

Last (and only) time I've had the knock sensor actually go off, the piston all ready had a hole in it. It's more about knowing your car and having a proper tune than using that as your safety valve.

BTW I unscrewed mine from the block last night and wrapped it up to shield against vibration. We'll see if the dyno plot straightens out at SZ.

Rick

those are both good points. Question is, why would you engineer a knock sensor that can't do it's job properly? Even in stock conditions.


Also, if you're losing 1/3 of your mid range timing buckshot, you've got 500 hp monster waiting to be free'd. Or at least 400 hp a lot sooner in the rpms.

You don't read well. I said the knock sensor turns off in high rpms. His top number will not get any higher by turning it off. I also said the under FI it hears false knock not under stock conditions. Sometimes with long tubes it will throw it off but usually not stock.

while we're talking about timing and tuning in general. Anybody here use the Innovative LM-1 for a/f's?? I've decided that for the cost of one damn dyno tuning session I can practically buy everything I need to do my own data analysis.