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Originally posted by Thomas Hanna:
.........Replace the plugs with Bosch not Autolite (Autolite Are To cold). 3. DO NOT USE Regular Unleaded, use at the very least Plus.........




My Zetec knowledge is not the best but recommending Bosch over Autolite plugs goes against ALL the posts I have read here.

Please reply with your reasons why you are recommending Bosch when everyone else warns against them.


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Originally posted by PeruvianHighlander:
This was happening to my Contour. I cleaned the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and that took care of the hesitation issue. I spoke with my cousin (a certified Ford Tech) and as soon as I described the issue, just like yours, he said it was the MAF 90%, plugs and wires 10%. Cleaning/replacing my MAF fixed that issue, but now I have an issue where my car will be on the verge of stalling for the first two minutes of cold starting. I am going to replace the plugs and wires this weekend. I will let you know how it goes.




where is this MAF located? any pics?


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First of all, thank you all for your replies, it is very helpful. I replaced my plugs and wires this morning and my car started right up, with no issue... the thing is, it is very warm today, as I did not finish until about 11:00. Over the next couple of days it should be cooler when I leave at 7:00 am and I should be able to let everyone know if it worked, or not. As for the GUNK, my father-in-law just told me about it, too. I will try that. I do have two more questions. I am using the Bosch Platinum plugs, as I understood they were very good. Does anyone else have an opinion on these? Secondly, why the plus gasoline? I used to have a 1992 Ford Explorer that had aweful gas milage and the engine was not smooth at all. I took it to several stealerships that told me various things, until one asked me what kind of gas I was using. I told him always premium. He suggested that I do what the manual instructed, and to use the regular gas. Within a week the problems were gone, and never came back. Because of that, I have always used what the manual states, which, in this case, is regular. I guess one more question. Should I reset my computer after cleaning the MAF and replacing the plugs and wires? Thanks.


As far as where the MAF is, it is between the air filter and the engine. If you do not know where the air filter is, then you are worse off than I, but it is a big black box just past the battery. From there, there is a cylindrical metal connector going into an accordian-type hose, which goes into the engine. The metal cylinder has a black piece of plastic with several (5?) wires coming out of it. That is the MAF. Of you get the metal cylinder out, and look trhough it, there is a smaller cylinder at the top. If you look closely in there you should see two small filaments inside, which are the sensors (I believe they detect air density=temperature). That is what you need to clean with a non-residue cleaner, such as (see next post). Do not take my word for this, however, please refer to the MAF Cleaning FAQ. For more information, I would suggest picking up a Haynes manual. I got mine for $9.50 from eBay (including shipping). HTH!

Last edited by PeruvianHighlander; 05/02/04 04:37 PM.

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Originally posted by PeruvianHighlander:
... you should see two small filaments inside, which are the sensors (I believe they detect air density=temperature). That is what you need to clean with a non-residue cleaner, such as throttle body cleaner.




Um, DO NOT use TB cleaner on those. Use electronics cleaner or non-clorinated brake cleaner.

Good description of the location!


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Decent pic on eBay.


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I'm having a near stalling prob. in the morning so I took the previous advice except that I took off the throttle body along with the mass airflow doohicky. There was alot of carbon built up behind the throttle body. You might wana take a look.

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