Yes, you should install new swaybar bushings with the larger sway bar(you'll have too anyway cos the bar is larger and the stock bushings don't work), but I would go ahead and beef up the backing plates with thicker and longer plates (two add a second mounting hole) and upgrade to Prothane brackets that use the two-hole mounts, rather than try and finagle the crummy stock "one hole and tab" bracket to work - it won't last!

Also you may find that you will need to get 2 new 3/8" Stainless Steel through bolts for the end link to sway bar connection, as a CEG'er told me that his stock sway bar bolts (that go through the stock endlinks) are a pinch too big for the upgraded links. This is weird cos a prototype I made with 7/16" rod end ended up needing me to drillout the sway bar eyelet to accept the larger bolt, so I though the next size down would do the trick. It's not a big issue, so don't fret.

Also, a tip on installing them to make it a LOT easier for you is to use ramps instead of axle stands to elevate the rear of the car. This will keep the lower control arms loaded, and parallel to the ground and thus easier to connect to the sway bar.

Another thing you can do is slather on some marine wheel bearing grease onto the spherical ball when you're all said and done to keep it lubricated and stop it from corroding (yes, even stainless steel corrodes!)

Thanks for the kind words guys!


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!