Originally posted by nOsSvTcOnToUr:
ok this is the 3rd one to go bad for me so this time i'm getting a knuckle from a junkyard but i'm tossing a new bearing in it already but what i really wanna know how involved this process of replacing the whole knuckle is. What tools would i need/>> what size and etc.. and tips would help as well. thx



Oh, replacing the knuckle is a fun job. The following is for a '99. Only reason I know, is because I did it.
1. Remove the caliper (not completely, just set it aside and make sure you don't damage the line)
2. Unplug the ABS sensor.
3. Remove the hub nut (the large nut in between the studs).
4. Use the pickle fork to remove the tie-rod end.
5. Remove the nuts/bolts that attach the knuckle to the lower control arm and lower the control arm (be careful here because you can damage the ball joint boot). I used said pickle fork again here to separate the two.
6. Loosen the strut tower nut 3-4 turns, just enough to give the steering knuckle/strut enough play to swing out (you'll see why).
6. Remove the nuts/bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle.
7. Use the special tool to remove the drive shaft from the knuckle. Hopefully yours just slides out. Be sure to use plenty of liquid wrench. I couldn't get mine out with the axle puller. So I removed the knuckle and halfshaft as one piece. I brought it to school and used the 20 ton on it. Let's just say it's a good thing I was replacing the bearings because they shattered when I got them out.
8. Once you get this far, you should be able to remove the knuckle from the strut. Once again, I hope your's slides out. Plenty of liquid wrench is a must once again.

To install, reverse the procedure except for tightening the strut nut. I would save that for last. Oh, don't forget to remove the retainer clips on each side of the bearing and replace the wheel hub mounting bolts and self-locking nylon nuts. Make sure the hub and bearing is clean, otherwise you won't be able to put the two back together without damage. From this point on, it's pretty straightforward. It's a big job and I would estimate 2 hours if everything goes well, 4 if it works out like mine.


As for Hugo,
Originally posted by hmouta:
i hate to ask this but how do u know the wheel bearing is bad and what exactly is it. i need to replace a wheel stud but taking a look i cant see how i'd be able to access the wheel stud and someone mentioned hitting the stud from behind when installing can damage the bearing. when i look it seems like the stud sits up against the back of the wheel hub


c'mon, you know what a bearing is. One way to tell if a bearing is bad, is if you hear a humming sound while in a straight-line and/or turning. Although sometimes it isn't your bearings, but your rotors rubbing the pads (when turning). In either case, they are bad or are on their last legs. The only way to replace studs without damage to the bearings is to follow the procedure listed above. You never want to hammer, or apply any sort of direct shock to a bearing. Anyway, since your taking the hub off, you might as well replace the bearing. It's not a fun job on either account but the payoff is so worth it! If I forgot anything, chime in anytime. Good luck guys! Hope this helps!
Sean
P.S. I have a repair manual, similar to the one Todras has, only on a DVD-ROM. If you want one, let me know.

'99 Silver SVT Contour (2000 miles since June, now needs new front brakes and bearings) '98 CBR900RR Again (Put away for the winter)