Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance do our cars use warm colant for cold starts. possible hp!

This is a ricer and mustang mod that bypasses this coolant that runs into the throttle bodies of cars.do we have this I was gonna try this but couldn't really find it there was a large tube looked like in ran into the intake manifold. Anyway can we bypass it my friends prelude felt alot more responsive after this was done.

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95 midnight red se matrix filter on blitz adapter, custom side exit exhaust. 17konigs, parada tires, custom sportshift kit, grinded and polished maf,standard super chip.1500watt alpine amp 2xtant twelves 90x4 alpine amp boston mids highs kenwood cd

Believe it or not it actaully cools down the intake once the car has been runing a while. The heat from the block radiates into the intake (Especially our Duratech!)

So there is NO benefit to doing such a mod. It's probably a placebo effect they feel (the need for it to work)

BTW - If you are thinking it will help during first start up; it won't. The thermostat is closed until the engine heats up. Not only that, but the engine is in closed loop mode. Besides no one in their right mind would go race their car if it wasn't properly warmed up. That's just asking for engine damage...

Isn't the ECU coolant temp sensor located in the manifold? If so, then the engine would stay in closed loop mode too. (I.E. NO Performance!)

There is *no* cooling loop that makes its in/around the intake plenum or throttle body.


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Brinn Riley
Melbourne, FL
'00 Black/Tan SVT Contour #560
www.mindspring.com/~cdw27
cdw27@mindspring.com

This was the case with Mustangs and F-bodies. The Mustang had coolant running through the EGR spacer, right after the Throttle Body. This is used to COOL the EGR spacer because the Exhause Gases heated the spacer.

Besides, how is the coolant warm on a cold start??

Regards.

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Michael Amisano
1998 SVT Contour E1 - Black 'n' Blue
5785 of 6535
New Engine: 09/00 @ 42K
SHO-Shop Y-pipe
mamisano@optonline.net

Let me just reiterate:
Cold start = cold engine = cold coolant. Since that great mystery is solved, I will go on w/ the chlorophyll.

The cooling system is at STP when cold. To allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature and pressure, the thermostat doesn't start to open until about 190 F. The electric fan doesn't spin up until about 212 F.

Myth #1: Engines have better performance cold. Nope. The engine management system is designed to get the vehicle up to operating temperature quickly so it can run more efficiently and cleaner. The reactions in the converter are catalyzed best at real high temps - one good reason not to do that exhaust mod right after you get back from Canada, eh? At op. temps, the air/fuel mixture is a stoichiometric ratio: roughly 14:1 - this is for economy, not performance. To warm up quicker, the EEC-IV enriches the mixture and advances ignition timing.

Myth #2 A cooler running engine is a happier engine. Nope. Those guys in the thermostat thread are morons. A 160 or 180 F stat will not only make your defrost about as useful as your a/c in the arctic, but does worse to your motor. Engines are designed to run with clearances at op. temp. Running cooler will cause undue wear, cause the computer to think the engine is still warming up - killing economy, and may even trigger your CEL (since it can never warm up).
The only good cold thing is air. Cold air more dense - there4 more O2. Would you like to swallow 150F+ air on the Marine Corps Marathon?
For those driving stop+go whining about the "My temp gauge reads in the AL of NORMAL," go drink some antifreeze. Your car is hot because you are torturing it. Run it on the highway, and your radiator will run its convection magic. Anyway, the gauge takes a reading off of a different sensor than that of the computer, so it may not be a true indication for starters. 2nd, your car running on the hot side is better than on the cold side. In fact, the hotter it can run w/out overheating, the better for econ. emissions and engine life.

Now for the part dear to us all, performance. First, as stated above by others who have it screwed on right, NEVER run hard without warming her up. Second, never try to run cooler to take advantage of the performance oriented air/fuel mixture and ignition timing offered by the EEC during warm-up.
If you want to take advantage of this however, you need to provide cues to the computer that it is warming up, even though it is already warm. Design a circuit that will alter the resistance of the IAT and ECT sensors (inverted thermistors - increased temperature = decreased resistance). Increase the resistance to 35k-40k ohms which will be about room temp. 68 F. Want to see some great ideas? Try http://pub34.ezboard.com/fzx2racingfrm22.showMessage?topicID=2.topic

Don't email me yet - my circuit will include throttle position based activation and is currently on the drawing board. I am also working on a circuit for external mirror turn signal LED's. More to come (performance and aesthetics forums).

thatks for the link and info, let me know when you figure this out. also its nice to know that someone will replie to a post from a few months back.

Any updates? Dynos? Saw this mod (IAT resistor) over at stangnet, just wondering how it works on the CSVT 2.5l.

-Scott

Fit a block heater!