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Couple of ideas:

Instead of a capacitor which wont hold more than a second or so of charge, how about keeping a Ni-cad charged up and working up a power switching circuit to cut it in/out as needed to help provide the turbo spin-up surge.

Electric turbo advantage: Less exposure to exhaust heat means cooler intake air temps and less need for an intercooler to minimize this loss.


Scott
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you can get 5 farad 24v cap for like $300 and a 10 for like $550. I don't have much information on this type of turbo, but at 24v to 30v and 5 farads, you should be able to keep the turbo running at max boost until the alt/bat can keep up again. also i think a 2nd battery might also be a good idea in conjunction with a cap, because wouldn't a battery just be too slow to use "in time of need" it should be similar to the way car stero guys use a 2nd battery and cap...


i am offically a troll... so take my information and advice with a grain of salt.

08/15/2001 - 11/05/2001 : 1999 Ford Contour SVT : 170fwhp - 147.9 fwtq
07/17/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Roush Mustang GT Stage 1
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Quote:

Electric turbo advantage: Less exposure to exhaust heat means cooler intake air temps and less need for an intercooler to minimize this loss.[/QB]


True, but it is still compressing the air, hence heating it up.

The NiCad idea is good, too, however, it'd probably be best to test it out on our cars and see if a cap would work, cause it'd be way simpler.


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I just talked with a friend of mine who got a 15 farad cap for his car stereo. The brand name is Aluma Pro. The retail is over 500 but he got a deal for under 400. This cap will charge and discharge with the cars ignition. That should be enough power. Now where can I get the turbo. laugh


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Ah.........just plug it into the 220 outlet at the strip with a 3000ft extension cord hanging out the back window.....and a nice little spool inside the chase vehicle.

AT&T was gonna do this for high speed cable pulls.......... laugh laugh

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Just my $.02...

A similar product, the eRam, will produce an effective 1psi of boost while drawing 100amps in a dual unit install. In most cases, that's good for about .5 in the 1320. To do this setup properly, one would need a seperate battery not connected to the main electrical system(except perhaps through a manual isolator for recharging). For the money it would take to do that setup, one could run a mild "nahs" setup with less weight and better results.

Don't get me wrong, I like the electric compressor idea as much as anybody - but it takes a lot of sustained current to run one. I'd just as soon run an exhaust driven compressor. laugh

Dan Beggs
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Quote:
Originally posted by Edvantaged_LX:
Ah.........just plug it into the 220 outlet at the strip with a 3000ft extension cord hanging out the back window.....and a nice little spool inside the chase vehicle.

AT&T was gonna do this for high speed cable pulls.......... laugh laugh


you just gave me one more reason to hate at&t


i am offically a troll... so take my information and advice with a grain of salt.

08/15/2001 - 11/05/2001 : 1999 Ford Contour SVT : 170fwhp - 147.9 fwtq
07/17/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Roush Mustang GT Stage 1
11/05/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning
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Rhetorical question: How many amps does a starter draw? If the battery can be used as an instantaneous source of power for the starter, why not configure the electric blower with a relay to draw current from the battery on demand?

I would argue that available current isn't the problem. It's controlling the unit to make boost when needed.


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http://www.egarrett.com/g-innovate_eat.html

Turbodyne only does R&D now. Honeywell (parent company of Garrett) will release the Turbopac to the public in Q2 of 2002. frown

However, I'll contact Garrett since they make it sound like these things are available now.


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any new info


97 gsxr lotsa good stuff 4 sale
95 talon tsi awd turbo loaded sold
95 se 2.5 mtx loaded (fragile handle with care)2 motors 3 trannies
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