|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839
Veteran CEG\'er
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839 |
Originally posted by Pen15:
h
Thanks for the advice. You know, when I was younger I used to be a member of the Pen15 club.
The Spickle
New Car: Infra Red '04 FSVT
Former Car: Black '98 CSVT, #3137/6535 "The Unluckiest car.. ever"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 92
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 92 |
Originally posted by SpliceVW:
I just noticed something else too.. when I only give it a *little tiny* bit of gas, the hissing sound doesn't exist, instead its a very faint whistling.
Anyways.. how does the timing get messed up, and how do I fix that?
The hiss/whistling is definitely a vacuum leak.
Did you guys tear apart the front of the engine at all? If so, when you put it back together the timming marks might have not been lined up. If the timming sprocket on the crank is spining back and forth, that will throw the timming off x2 on the cams. Without being there it is hard to diagnose exactly what is wrong. The best way to tell if the crank bolt is loose is to reach down and try taking it off with your fingers. If you can, it is not torqued down. I believe the torque on it should be around 150ft-lbs.
'95 Mystique ATX I4 2.0 134,000mi
'96 Contour MTX I4 2.0 36,000mi
My Rides
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839 |
Originally posted by Nighthawk:
Originally posted by SpliceVW:
I just noticed something else too.. when I only give it a *little tiny* bit of gas, the hissing sound doesn't exist, instead its a very faint whistling.
Anyways.. how does the timing get messed up, and how do I fix that?
The hiss/whistling is definitely a vacuum leak.
Did you guys tear apart the front of the engine at all? If so, when you put it back together the timming marks might have not been lined up. If the timming sprocket on the crank is spining back and forth, that will throw the timming off x2 on the cams. Without being there it is hard to diagnose exactly what is wrong. The best way to tell if the crank bolt is loose is to reach down and try taking it off with your fingers. If you can, it is not torqued down. I believe the torque on it should be around 150ft-lbs.
Didn't touch the timing system I don't think. We were gonna replace the chains and sprocket, but a Ford dealer ripped me off big time and I ended up with only 1 chain, so he just left the timing system be.
The Spickle
New Car: Infra Red '04 FSVT
Former Car: Black '98 CSVT, #3137/6535 "The Unluckiest car.. ever"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
|
|
CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
I recommend going to www.autopartsgiant.com to buy your timing components. I did for my rebuild. If your damper is loose, this will allow the crank sensor gear to float between the case cover and timing chain. This will cause a scraping grinding noise as you rotate the engine. If in doubt, spend a few dollars for a new damper bolt and washer and replace it. For new bolt torque to 89 ft pounds. loosen the bolt at least one full turn. Then torque to 39 foot pounds and then rotate another 90 degrees.
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by SpliceVW:
... it seems to me that its not as regular as when I had the major knocking on my first engine. Its a consistant tap tap tap, but when revved you can't really hear it that well, and the tapping increases in frequency but isn't quite as consistant.
That sound, as you describe it here, reminds me of a spark leak that I had in one of my old V-8s. The sound was more like a click or snap that would easily get drowned out as you rev the engine. I tightened down all the plug wires - found one was very loose (stupid cheap wires - I was poor). The spark was jumping the gap from the wire to the top of the plug & made the snap noise. The engine ran just a bit rough because of it too.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839 |
Okay now here's the question.. which of those problems might be caused by the engine running really rich?
The Spickle
New Car: Infra Red '04 FSVT
Former Car: Black '98 CSVT, #3137/6535 "The Unluckiest car.. ever"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 352
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 352 |
Adding to Derek's comments for additional troubleshooting help:
1) Clutch is terrible, feels as if the flywheel or pressure plate is out of round. More pronounced on decelleration shifts.
2) Power loss will be commented on in #4. IAC replaced idle fine now, occasional "blip" in RPMs with no driver input. Normal?
3) Tapping sounds as if it's coming from the lower end. I took a mechanic's stethoscope to the valve covers, heard nothing. Put the stethoscope to the lower end of the timing cover, could hear tapping. Not an ingnition sound- Metallic. Possibly out of tolerance bearing, not loud enough to cause concern just yet, but makes me wonder what else may be wrong.
4) Power loss associated with the hissing/scraping sound. This appears to be coming from the transmission/engine meeting point, lending further evidence to a defective clutch. SPEC says shaking & chatter is "normal"?! Puh-lease! My Fidanza/Centerforce is as quiet as can be- No chatter, even with the clutch out, and definitely no shaking! Clutch was installed with the supplied alignment tool.
5) Oil coming from valve cover breathers, both sides. Oil is not leaking from aft of the throttle body- It's pooling in the MAF, and the trail comes right from both breathers. PCV valve checked and is clear of obstruction.
6) No idea, except I know my hybrid heats up like this thing does. And this is only a 10:1 motor. Possible clog in rad?
7) Put a gauge on the test port of the A/C, read 0 psi. A/C clutch not engaging (no surprise there since no pressure in the line). When I swapped the motor, I removed the compressor from the side of the engine and tucked it out of the way. I did not touch the system other than that.
I believe at this point we need to drop the transmission again and remove the clutch for inspection and replacement. I believe the hissing sound is the clutch itself slipping or otherwise being its stupid self. The hissing also comes when the clutch is depressed- Leading further to possible defective pressure plate evidence?!
Dan G. and his Cougar
Forged internal (Diamond & Pauter) full 3L, "Monster" Kinger F/I cut & P&P, T3/4 60 trim .82A/R ADC turbo, SPEC Stage 3, Torsen, Greddy Profec-B SPEC II, Apex'i Timer, Lots of Gauges!
Used to have: 3.0L SVT hybrid
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 29
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 29 |
Originally posted by SpliceVW:
Okay so I've got problems up the butt:
1) Stage 1 spec clutch/flywheel is still acting up. Clutch chatter at idle is very loud, and the whole engine shakes when you start from a stop. Calling spec soon, gonna find out what they're gonna do about this piece of crap.
2) Idles rough, large power loss, gas in oil, black smoke out exhaust. Check engine light says O2 sensor, replacing soon. The rough idle is causing a stall, diagnosis: bad IAC.
3) Tapping sound at low RPMs, goes away at about 2000. Sounds like its coming from lower engine. Just changed the oil, seemed to get better but still there.
4) Hissing/scraping sound, NO CLUE what the hell it is. Quiet but prominent, can only hear it when I'm driving next to a car or wall. Non-existant at idle, revving engine with clutch pedal down still causes the sound so its not the bad clutch/flywheel.
5) Excessive oil in intake. Not coming from the engine. No ideas.
6) Engine heats up way, way too fast. Will be halfway up the gauge after a mile or two. No ideas.
7) A/C not working. I'm ignoring that one for now.
If I hear one person tell me to use the search, I'm going to kill them. With a spoon. I've searched a little, everything seems to be left unsolved and its too hard to do an extensive search since it takes so long.
That being said, any help would be really, really nice..
Regarding 1.) Sounds like a bad pilot bushing or a faulty pressure plate (Not working evenly).
2.) Could be your fuel regulator or your injector(s) are bad and it's providing to much fuel to the pistons, you're sucking the un-used fuel into the oil with the pistons. Remember, that electric fuel pump will keep pumping gas as long as there's no pressure causing it to stop pumping. This will also cause your engine to run rich, blow smoke out the exhaust, and run like shi*.
3.) See No.2
4.) Low disk brake pad warning scraper. It makes that noise because it's dragging on the rotor after the pad wears to thin.
5.) Might not be oil, could be un-used fuel build up from getting to much fuel as indicated in No.2
6.) Engine will heat up fast if not running properly, and in your case it's far from proper!
7.) AC could just need a recharge - simple task, least of your worries right now.
Thomas
I Live My Life A Quarter Mile At A Time...
During That 10 Seconds Or Less, I'm Free!
1998.5 SVT Contour
aka: THE TOURMINATOR
|
|
|
|
|
