Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Car won't stay running

well, initially I had the vacuum leak/idling problem. During that process I had changed all the intake manifold gaskets, seals, O-rings, IAC Valve, MAF, TPS sensor.

My car ran badly for the first 20 miles and then everything ran real good. 400 miles later(today) the car would start and die immediately. Regardless if I start the car and immediately shift to gear, it would die. One thing I did notice was before, all I had to turn my key and the thing would start; Now, I have to turn the key and count till 5 before it starts. Also, last night's drive was a little rough. It seems like the car was hesistating/jerking very minutely.

There is a CEL that came on last night but I cannot get to it because it won't move.

I just tried jumping the car... thinking it may be a weak battery but it did not help either.

What year car is it?

Does you tach move to 300-500 RPM when you turn it over? If it does not, then it is your Crank Shaft Position Sensor.

My car is a 1996 ATX. My rpms would be about 1k and after that it drops and dies.

Good suggestion NightHawk.

If not the CPS, how much gas is in your car right now? It sounds like the fuel filter may be clogged or (more likely) the fuel pump is failing. Your sputtering symptoms suggest fuel starvation, combined with a CEL (possibly for lean mix) and that whould be where I start.

Replace the fuel filter, even if you've done it recently - easy enough & cheap. If that doesn't help, then swap the fuel & horn relays under the hood - another simple & cheap check to see if your fuel pump relay is in need of replacement.

Finally, get a pressure check and pull up your rear seat cushion to check the wiring to the pump - make sure the voltages are what they ought to be. Could turn out to be a simple grounding problem. This will also help you hear that your pump is running when you turn the key.

That's places to start. Good luck.

I have a full tank of gas. As for the fuel filter, I barely changed it not long ago, it has less than 1000 miles on it. However, it's not a costly item so I'll change that first.

Quote:

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swap the fuel & horn relays

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where should I look and how do I swap it? I'm going to go buy a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure. Can't you tell me what psi it should be? Also, what voltage should the pump be?

Thanks!!

thanks... I'll keep you posted. Hopefully, as soon as I get a ride to autozone for parts.

Okay,

Here's what I've done so far.

Switch out a brand New Fuel Pump and Strainer with the old one. Check fuel pressure. And got hold of an obd2 scanner.

The Codes were P0171 and P0174.

During the winter, when it was having problems, I've got the IAC, MAF, UIM/LIM cleaned, IAT sensor changed. So I am positive I'm no longer dealing with a vacuum leak. Also, the weather outside was 74 degrees today.

Anyway, we also tried switching the horn and fuel pump relays and they were good. Then we tried unhooking the IAC Valve wires and Viola... the car idled. However, it idled at 500 rpm. We drove it around in the parking lot and according to him, he said it was bogging.

Also, if anyone could get me the Vacuum wiring diagram, Fuel System Diagram and anything else related to that would be appreciated.
Can someone tell me what to do next? I'm at a lost.

Are you certain that the short rubber hose between the intake and PCV valve is not leaking?

Are the Secondaries closed?

Have you cleaned the fuel injectors?

Have you checked the ECT?

To be honest, I don't think the engine should run with the IAC unplugged unless there is an air leak somewhere.