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Joined: Nov 2003
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ok heres the deal, i smacked a valve(intake i believe) and am tearing my heads off and going to go completely thru them. i started working at a machine shop building all out race engines 2 months ago and am being trained to be the head specialist. i have worked on plenty of small blocks big blocks and even a couple hemi's but only several dohc sets of heads and since i am going to going thru my heads and doing a valve job anyway i have some ideas....

oh i am posting in this forum because i figure this is where most of the people who actually know about machine work hang out...if i'm out of place i can repost in duratec performance

i am wondering what i should consider doing.
oh by the way all labor is free so the only limits are actually buying parts

i am planning to do
1.standard 3angle 45degree valve job on the intake valves w/ 30 degree back cut

2. deshroud the valves and clean out my combustion chambers

3. deck the head as much as possible while maintaining clearance and streetable compression.

4. port match/ gasket match exhaust and intakeports

5. blend bowls and open up the port throats

6.polish exhaust ports

should i go ahead and install 3.0L valves since im already going to be on the seat and guide machine? how will this run on a stock SE 96 2.5?

i will be able to afford to add larger possibly 19lb injectors and purchase a chip to compensate for the increased air flow.

i'll prbbly add a 2.5" single exhaust and possibly retain a primary cat

i'm really looking for info becuz i have too many questions to be answered by the search function. i will start this project in roughly the next 2 weeks.

i know a great deal about engines and cars but just not about the contour and what i can get away w/

thanx in advance for any advice/info.


96 SE 2.5L MTX for Sale check the classifieds 0-60 in 3.4 now(skidoo formula III 700) 165hp 3cyl i got more done to my sled than u do to your car 12sec all motor H22 stroker 94 accord in progress... looking for 280-300hp outta 2.56 L
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With the smaller chambers of the 2.5L, the 3L valves already have to be unshrouded when we use them on a hybrid 3L. Since yours will be used on a 2.5L where deshrouding the chambers can't happen (to the extent needed due to the smaller cylinders), I would say stick with the stock sized intake valves. Exhaust valves would be a nice experiment though...

What really matters on your 2.5L is: "Where is the restriction?" With the stock SE intake manifolds on the engine, the restriction isn't really in the heads anyway, it's the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and restrictive single exhaust. You've mentioned a better single exhaust, which is a good start, but unless you also plan on headers and an SVT (or better) intake setup, the extensive head work will be a big waste of time IMO. Leave it at a general cleanup and remove casting flash where needed unless you are investing or plan to invest in the above.

Keep the deck as thick as possible and only mill enough to clean up any surface imperfections. If you want compression, do it right with new pistons and leave the quench area alone on the heads.


http://www.bnmotorsports.com "And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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<Agree


Ex-cat cams dealer. Today we do motor mounts.. Tommorow. Intake manifolds
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If you want someone to do this for you, we have done about 25 sets now and got it figured out pretty good.


I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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traitor, a '04 STi.

hehe! Nice ride. . .


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