|
|
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,423
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,423 |
I would not use Plexiglas...it will crack too easy. If you want it to be durable and clear you want to use Lexan. Lexan is bullet proof and can be cut easily, bent like bendable aluminum, s/s, or plain sheet metal. You can sheer .125" lexan and also bend it in any sheet metal break and it will not crack or chip at all. Drill, tap, screw, rivet will not matter they all will work. Plexiglas is very brittle and is best glued together. If you drill and tap it unless it is very thick (.500" and up) it will eventually crack. We use both quite a bit at work in our electronics lab for various enclosures and covers around High-Voltage. I have machined up to 4" thick Plexiglas for mechanical fixtures when metal can not be allowed...usually for non-magnetic environments. Trust me I have a good bit of experience with both.
If you use aluminum you want to use 3003-H14 or 5052-H32, these are both bendable. If you get 6061-T6 or 2024-T3 they will not bend, they will break. If you need to weld it get 6061-T6 and 2024-T3 is good for panels.
Scott
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
#1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 
2002 F150 SuperCrew
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,280
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,280 |
Hey Phil-I'll buy you a whole BBQ chicken from Gibson's for a heat sheild!  Good on ya for making stuff, Phil! If you need some help with it, I'm just up the street...more or less.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by unisys12:
Through all this though, I am still at odds over what I should actually build this out of.
I dunno, man. I'm thinkin' you'd better make a BUNCH just like that & sell 'em on Ebay. Lookit...
1 Adjustable air inlet
2 Corregated heat insulation technology
3 Easy to repair & re-use if the car is wrecked
4 If the car burns up, you get repeat business
5 pliable bulkheads will not dent or severely damage the underside of the hood
6 Inexpensive, quick, & easy to produce
7 Low materials cost
8 Your kids could help you assemble them
9 Your kids could use them as a show & tell project for school
10 any leftovers can be used to start up the fire place.
11 Possibly lighter than carbon fiber - the new technology in automotive ricing...er, racing!
12 Lightweight means low shipping costs
13 they are their own shipping container! BONUS!!
A million dollar idea if I ever seed one. 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944 |
Originally posted by Cookie Monster:
Hey Phil-I'll buy you a whole BBQ chicken from Gibson's for a heat sheild!
I might take you up on that chicken mang!! Get an intake pipe and you can be one of the first to test it out with an intake pipe. Doesn't matter which one... CTA or BAT
I guess since we have just as many Zetecer's at our meets as we do Duratecer's, I might be able to get one of them to step to the plate and offer their car as test bed as well. I can't really think of any off hand though... 
On the other hand... I do really like Jim's idea. Ecspecially the two points about including the kids. Free labor! Gotta love that!! I could just spray some clear coat or something else to fend off the moisture, for a short time anyway. 
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,280
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,280 |
Yeah, that'd work great if we do another dyno meet. A run or two without the sheild, then a couple runs with the sheild. Both tests the hood would have to be shut though. We'll see what's in store for the Chattavegas Mobile.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944 |
Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
Yeah, that'd work great if we do another dyno meet. A run or two without the sheild, then a couple runs with the sheild. Both tests the hood would have to be shut though. We'll see what's in store for the Chattavegas Mobile.
A heatsheild is not really something you would normally see gains from, on a dyno anyway. On the street yeah, but not a dyno.
And yes. Hector and I, at least, will be making some more runs on the dyno in Huntsville at the next meet. Arthur really hooked us up last time and said that he really looked forward to us returning. Even though most everyone had to back out, for one reason or another, he still gave three of us (Tired, from Focal Jet was there) the $10 bucks off.
I was really hoping to save up for some mods, that way I could do some testing, but since my last attempt at a baseline was foiled by a rich mixture I will have to try again the next time for the base line. That is, unless chrisilverSVT and I can hook up in memphis at a dyno and make some runs before then.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 287
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 287 |
Ok dumb question here... with the stock airbox originally installed it draws air from the tubing on the side... where is the actual opening of this tubing, and is the air sucked up the tube by the engine?
What I am getting at is if you have the K&N in there and dont have a really good seal around that same opening, will there still be enough draw to pull the outside air in??
Does that make sense?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 326
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 326 |
I fabbed one up last year for my cougar
4 sided.
I also have a cool air feed that comes into the bottom of the box
The only thing I haven't done yet, is get the rubber gasket
that mates up with the hood.
I made mine first out of cardboard..
then I used Corrugated Plastic my theory was
that it would work much like a thermopane window.
I'll see if I can get some pictures.. I still have the one
piece cardboard template around.
Although the mention of Fiberglass now has me intrigued
I may wrap my existing shield.... hrmmm....
Anyone have a source for inexpensive gasket material
(sorta like a trunk gasket)
99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141 |
i had an idea for ya man....go to autozone or wherever you go, and get a digital display temp guage like all those minivans have that tell you the outside temp....and run the sensor into your inkake tube. drive around and see what your incoming air temp is before...and after an install of your shield.
just a thought
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944 |
Originally posted by pole120:
i had an idea for ya man....go to autozone or wherever you go, and get a digital display temp guage like all those minivans have that tell you the outside temp....and run the sensor into your inkake tube. drive around and see what your incoming air temp is before...and after an install of your shield.
just a thought
I thought about that, but using some temp tape that we used to use at work alot but not anymore. It has an adhisive on the back, so it will stick to almost anything. Only problem is that it is made to read such high temps, between 250 to 450 degrees, that it might not yeild any decent results. Your idea might just work though. Thanks!
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
|
|
|
|
|
