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#928180 06/08/04 08:42 PM
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Originally posted by ds5192:
They claimed to not know what the Aussie was.

Thanks,
-ds5192




LMFAO! How would they? It's a custom bar manfufactured through one of our members.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#928181 06/09/04 02:05 AM
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Find a calculator and the conversion from millimeters to an inch, see how many sixteenthsof an inch the 24 mm Aussie bar equates as. Then tell Summit that's the size in fractions of an inch which you are pricing.

This WILL be on the summer mid-term exam.


MSDS, SHO-shop Y, custom 2.5" catback; xcal2; 63mm TB, K&N 3530; Koni struts, Aussie bar; THaines forks, Quaife, SpecII, UR fly; DMD; Nima UD pullies; Stazi brakes; f&r Pole120 mounts. Just a daily commuter car. Silver '98 SVT E0 #3159
#928182 06/09/04 06:45 AM
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Hey Harley,

I found this info on FCO- maybe it can help you out.

<quote from TH>

...as Mike at SeiCoRacing has made an extensive post on the subject(thanks Mike),I thought I give a few pointers on reducing understeer(plowing) on Contours.These apply to most all cars but...to reduce understeer:-Higher front tire pressures*Lower rear tire pressures*Larger front tire section*Smaller rear tire section*More negative camber on front*More positive on rear*Softer front springs/shock setting*Stiffer rear springs/shock setting*Front anti-roll(stab) bar softer(thinner)*Rear anti-roll(stab)bar stiffer(thicker)*Weigt distribution,move rearward.....This assumes you like the twisties and not just a 'straight line' 60ft time.....for that the rules change.(Info from HMS Inc/Bilsten/Spax and Baer)

<end quote from TH>

I suppose the optimal setup would be 1) Aussie bar 2) Camber plates 3) Tire pressures as above 4) Remove some weight from the front to get the wt. distr. towards the rear- CF hood, battery reloc.

As far as spring rates go, I suppose we'll all have to live with what we've got available.


-Chuck Dienzo Black 98.5 E1 SVT #5022 of 6535 Born on March 16, 1998 "If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
#928183 06/09/04 07:11 PM
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Also, on CSVTs you can swap to a non-svt front sway bar. Doing ALL of that though could produce too much oversteer for some of us.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#928184 06/10/04 03:23 AM
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Also, on CSVTs you can swap to a non-svt front sway bar. Doing ALL of that though could produce too much oversteer for some of us.



Actually a larger front bar would cause more understeer (push) of the nose of the car.

They reduced the size of the SVT front bar to make the car more nimble.

Definitely do not increase the size!


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#928185 06/10/04 04:52 AM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Also, on CSVTs you can swap to a non-svt front sway bar. Doing ALL of that though could produce too much oversteer for some of us.



Actually a larger front bar would cause more understeer (push) of the nose of the car.

They reduced the size of the SVT front bar to make the car more nimble.

Definitely do not increase the size!



I'm not sure what I was thinking.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#928186 06/11/04 05:52 AM
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Originally posted by vudusvt:
Hey Harley,

I found this info on FCO- maybe it can help you out.




thanks, However i knew pretty much all of that already. I knew all those hours of gran turismo was gonna come in handy someday. I just knew that putting a bigger sway bar in the rear would be the easest fix. And i didnt want to run a smaller bar up front, Cause then ill just overload the outside tire when i go in a turn, wich is defeating the purpose. I want more traction not less.
The one thing i didnt overlook is the whole weight dist. I realy would like to put the batt. in the trunk. But then i saw that thread in dyno/drag about having to have an external switch for the batt. wich i realy dont want to have a big ugly red lever hanging of the back of the car everytime i want to go drag racing. I wounder how much a CF hood would help. Hey you have a CF hood did it effect the handling at all??


98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's. "I say what I mean and I do what i say"
#928187 06/11/04 06:15 AM
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You aren't gonna notice a difference in handling from a CF hood, probably not from moving the battery either. Now do those two things plus a lot more weight removal/distrubition and you could notice. The csvt is already pretty evenly weighted from what I hear. Of course you can still see improvements by removing weight and/or redistributing it to the rear (make sure you put it in the right place in the rear though). Of course, removing weight from the front will lower your traction at the drag strip. Anyways, about moving the battery, ATL-SRT (or svt on here) is putting a switch under his srt4's license plate, so he can just remove the plate at the drag strip and run. On the street, you'd never see it.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#928188 06/11/04 06:25 AM
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
You aren't gonna notice a difference in handling from a CF hood, probably not from moving the battery either.



I would agree, but it def. doesnt hurt.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Anyways, about moving the battery, ATL-SRT (or svt on here) is putting a switch under his srt4's license plate, so he can just remove the plate at the drag strip and run. On the street, you'd never see it.




and thats a real good idea.


98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's. "I say what I mean and I do what i say"
#928189 06/11/04 07:37 AM
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Hmmm, I didn't realize that the kill switch had to be on the outside of the car. I always thought "external kill switch" meant "somewhere away from the battery but still inside the car".

To answer your other question- no, I didn't notice any appreciable difference in handling after the CF hood & batt reloc, but then again, I'm rolling (literally) on bone stock suspension. If I ever get around to NOT spending my cash on things other than an Aussie bar & the associated upgrades it entails, maybe the wt. dist. thing would give me an ever-so-slight edge vs. a similarly equipped non batt. reloc, non CF hood SVT- IF we had the exact same driving skill....

There's a public scale near me, I should run in and check my car out. Hopefully they've got a "4-corner" set-up....


-Chuck Dienzo Black 98.5 E1 SVT #5022 of 6535 Born on March 16, 1998 "If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
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