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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13 |
I am having the Quaife installed and want to put in Redline oil/fluid. The Contour Owner's Guide states to use ATF fluid for both the automatic and manual. So which Redline product should I use? The D4ATF, MTL, or MT-90? I did read in the MT-90/MTL product sheet that MT-90 is used with some limited slip diffs to reduce chatter. Looking for suggestions...
Thanks,
Dan
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Any of those will work. If you intend to use a RedLine product, MTL seems to be the lubricant of choice of most in this group. The Ford synthetic MTX oil will also work exceptionally well but you will probably want to add some friction modifier.
In short, any of the several products posted in the past for use in the MTX-75 will work fine and will be compatable with your LSD.
A short history. Ford used ATF in this trans for several years. Perhaps starting with type F but definitely using Mercon from 96 to early 00. In early 00 Ford started using a synthetic GL 4 gear oil and said that it was manditory for use in the transmissions that it was orignially installed in and was preferred for both topping off and refilling all MTX-75 transmissions.
Adding friction modifier to normal ATF helps the synchros to wipe the oil off better and greatly improves overall shift quality. Somewhere along the way, someone tried Mobil 1 ATF (which happens to meet Mercon specs) with friction modifier and discovered that synthetic oil was beneficial.
It was also discovered that the Chrysler spec ATF+3 has a much higher level of friction modifier to start with and works well without adding friction modifier.
Of the RedLine products you listed, some or more the consistency of ATF, and some are slightly more viscous like Ford's new synthetic MTX fluid. It is felt that MTL has enough friction modifier to start with that no additional is needed, but that MT90 might need additional friction modifier.
One poster has recommended an initial fill of ATF+3 and draining it in 500 to 1000 miles and then installing the synthetic lubricant of your choice.
What do I have in mine? Ford synthetic + friction modifier. It works very well. I don't have an LSD unit though.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483 |
For the break in period, I reccomend the Ford Honey.
After that, go with Redline MTL.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Break in period for what?! Nothing to break in.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by todras:
Break in period for what?! Nothing to break in.
It is always a good idea to change the fluid shortly after new parts are installed and the case has been cracked open allow FO to get in.
However do not waste your money using Ford Honey fluid.
Use a regular ATF+3 for the first 500 miles.
Then switch to Redline MTL. (My choice)
Ford Honey with FM added or MT-90 would work also.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
B.S. You don't buy a Spec V or any other LSD equiped car and then change the fluid out now do you?
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506 |
Originally posted by todras:
B.S. You don't buy a Spec V or any other LSD equiped car and then change the fluid out now do you?
Well with BMW M3's there is a 1200 mile service.....After the car has been broken in in 1200 miles, we do an Oil Change, filters, tranny fluid, and diff fluid change. M3 also has a limited slip.
They also did it on the E38 740 and 750's, E31 850, M5 and the M6. (mainly the only cars that come stock with LSD's)
We do that cause thats the intinal break in period for new parts (with bmw atleast) so maybe switching the fluid at 5oo miles isn;t that bad of an idea.
I know a BMW isn't a contour by any means......but a Spec V isn't either.
id personaly rather be safe than sorry, on changing the fluid.
now if he doesn;t want to, thats the posters choice.
Im not trying to start anything between you and I Todras, Just putting my .02 on the whole situation beacuse i ahve had experience with one or two car makers that do change there trans and diff fluids after an intial break in period.
I will say this.....both car makers i know about are european....I do not know of any america or Asian car makers that do that....atleast on base model cars.
Roz
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by todras:
B.S. You don't buy a Spec V or any other LSD equiped car and then change the fluid out now do you?
I change the fluid on any new engine or tranny after 500-1000 miles.
Anyone that does not is not very smart.
Wear material ALWAYS is the greatest during the first several "uses" of said component regardless.
An LSD definitely has metal to metal contact does it not???
What about the bearings, babbit material in the shifter forks, soft metals (blocker rings, etc), et cetera.
All are being worn in at the same time are they not?
Was the work area most DIYers have available "Clean Room" sanitary?
Did it have 100% dust and Foreign Object removal fans?
Another reason to remove the oil after a short time.
Since it's job is to suspend all the FO then changing it after 500-1000 miles also takes care of any of this sort of contamination - be it minor or if it collected metal dust/flakes from other porting/grinding work done in the some area/shop. 
So yes it is a very smart idea and a very good idea for the longevity of said components.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,196
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: May 2000
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Quote:
Somewhere along the way, someone tried Mobil 1 ATF (which happens to meet Mercon specs) with friction modifier and discovered that synthetic oil was beneficial.
This is what I did on my 3rd MTX fluid change, but I added Mopar friction modifier (its all the guy had in stock) I did that about 6K ago and no problems at all. FWIW, I changed my car over to Mobil 1 ATF at 6K, then changed it out again at 26K and the last one was at 45K, but like I said earlier, I added the Mopar friction modifier  I paid about $15.00 for (3) quarts of Mobil 1, $8.00 for the Mopar friction modifier and $10.00 for the change out. I feel this is cheap preventive maintence 
"THEE" Roger R
USMondeo@aol.com
2005 Crossfire Limited coupe'
-FOR SALE @buyout price & I'll...
-throw in my 93' Regal as winter car
*Dragon Run 06'...Oct 12-15th*
Puur-fection Auto Detailing
Complete packages from $140.00
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