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... I need to know what size bushings to use in the "aussie bar" brackets so I can use the stock bar again... anyone know?

Anyone wanna help me swap it back to "normal"?



-Aaron 1999 Contour SVT #2553/2760 Order protein powder from www.trueprotein.com and use AAL229 to get 5% off!
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Why do you wanna get rid of it Aaron? I had my rear subframe upgraded for $200.00, something to think about


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Shameless plug to sell his bar?


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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
Shameless plug to sell his bar?




...or he could put it in his sig, that works for me. Thanks Hella Hydro, you were famous or infamous for doing that and it really, really works! BTW, I saw his car again yesterday and it was traveling S on Crooks by 14 mile rd.


"THEE" Roger R USMondeo@aol.com 2005 Crossfire Limited coupe' -FOR SALE @buyout price & I'll... -throw in my 93' Regal as winter car *Dragon Run 06'...Oct 12-15th* Puur-fection Auto Detailing Complete packages from $140.00
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Originally posted by The Striped SVT:
BTW, I saw his car again yesterday and it was traveling S on Crooks by 14 mile rd.




That thing is everywhere.


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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
Shameless plug to sell his bar?




Did I mention selling the bar anywhere in my post? I don't think so...
I'm pretty sure I asked a question about how I can go back to stock - which is more difficult now that I have the "upgraded brackets" that came with the bar when I bought it... but if you see a "shameless plug" anywhere in my post, please point it out to me.

And Roger - I don't have an extra $200 to spend to upgrade my subframe... Need my money for other things now that I bought a condo...


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I still don't get the fascination with this part.

It's the wrong thing to do for handling, especially for a near stock suspension, plus it destroys the rear subframe of the car.

People don't seem to know that a sway bar will never add grip, it can only take away grip to balance the car. In a car with lift-throttle oversteer, I don't see the need to remove more grip from the rear of the car.


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I can see why it makes a big difference, it allows the car to rotate slightly during proper cornering on a track, allowing the tires to maintain a better slip angle, one which allows them to be far closer to their optimal traction. Also by transferring balance back to the rear, the front tires are not overwhelmed as easily which gives them far more traction under hard driving. In addition to this, the rear bar provides more roll stiffness without contributing to problems associated with a car that has too much spring stiffness.

I have had the bar for a while, and as long as the car is driven properly (as i would on a track) the tail will not wag.


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i have had my HMS reinforced subframe for just coming up on 18 months and it is solid as ever, never any problems, other than having to stick a grease gun on the zerk fittings to keep it lubed.

Ben


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Originally posted by {Kontofosho}:
I can see why it makes a big difference, it allows the car to rotate slightly during proper cornering on a track, allowing the tires to maintain a better slip angle, one which allows them to be far closer to their optimal traction. Also by transferring balance back to the rear, the front tires are not overwhelmed as easily which gives them far more traction under hard driving. In addition to this, the rear bar provides more roll stiffness without contributing to problems associated with a car that has too much spring stiffness.

I have had the bar for a while, and as long as the car is driven properly (as i would on a track) the tail will not wag.




That is just plain wrong. maybe I can find some time later to go over where your misconceptions lie. the bottom line is that overall grip is reduced because of the inherent nature of how anti-roll bars increase roll stiffness.
The bar REMOVES grip from the rear, not "transferring balance back to the rear".

Sure its fun to let the tail come around when you are playing with the car, but it doesn't make it faster or "handle better".


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