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#915974 04/06/04 01:15 AM
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Yep, that's the crappy looking fix that I'm used to. Personally I don't like it, to each his own I guess. What fix is there for the dash warping/peeling up around the instrument cluster?


99 CSVT Green/Tan # 84 of 2760 Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998 15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock 75,000Km 96 Contour GL 2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
#915975 04/06/04 01:19 AM
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I am on my second dash & it is starting to warp now. However, this dash is also seperating near the glove box ! Sometimes it actually prevents me form open the glove box unless I push it out of the way. I also have 2 bubbles apearing at the gap just before the top of the air bag. Hard to explain without pictures, but my point is that I don't think the new vent piece by the windshield will help keep the whole dash from eventually pealing. I definately want to get this dash problem resolved, but I don't want to keep doing things that are only temporary fixes for a long term problem. I hope all of us together can come up with a good solution.


Black 99 CSVT #1820 of 2760 -Current Mods- DMD, KKM, Koni-Kit, HPP rear strut tower bar, metal water pump, tinted windows, Pioneer DEHP4600MP, 6x8 Pioneer 4ways
#915976 04/06/04 07:43 AM
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Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
... I ripped my dash out this weekend and rebonded ...




How difficult was it to remove the dash? Did you pull the steering wheel, etc? It just seems like a ton of work to me. Any imput, or after-thoughts will be appreciated.


2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150 HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers 2003 Silverstone Z
#915977 04/06/04 12:15 PM
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It was not a very hard job. I had good instructions from the Ford service CD. I had to remove the center consoul and the steering coloum to remove the dash. Only tools required were a ratchet with 4" extension 7, 8 and 10mm sockets and a #30 torx bit or screwdriver. It helps to have a second hand when doing the reinstall (thank you Cheryl, my wife) to reconnect the hoses back there and placing the dash. It takes time to do it right so you need to have a full weekend to do it. The rebonding takes the most time because I found it is best to work in small sections.

PS. Your hands will get cut up a bit but that's expected.


99 CSVT Green/Tan # 84 of 2760 Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998 15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock 75,000Km 96 Contour GL 2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
#915978 04/06/04 01:28 PM
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Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
Yep, that's the crappy looking fix that I'm used to. Personally I don't like it, to each his own I guess. What fix is there for the dash warping/peeling up around the instrument cluster?




Hmm, should I tell you how to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster after you insult my car like that?


I guess until you see one in person you'll never open your mind enough to realize that it really is a good fix to the problem. And unlike the hack jobs you keep talking about, this one is permanent.



BTW, to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster (AND AROUND THE GLOVE BOX) you will use rivets. Pull the dash material tight, drill a hole, install rivet, repeat. Be careful around the instrument cluster not to drill too deeply or you will penetrate the top of the dash; starting in the center above the cluster will yield the best results. When doing the glove box it is possible to install the rivets in such a way that they won't show--using masking tape mark where the location of the topmost part of the box side and install the rivets below this point.

Download this .pdf for a step by step guide on the dash R&R.


-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
#915979 04/06/04 01:31 PM
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Originally posted by epattonm:
Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
... I ripped my dash out this weekend and rebonded ...




How difficult was it to remove the dash? Did you pull the steering wheel, etc? It just seems like a ton of work to me. Any imput, or after-thoughts will be appreciated.




You haven't fixed yours yet?

The most frustrating part was getting the steering column reinstalled by myself. It has tabs you have to insert before you can start a bolt and makes it quite the fiddle. Offer a friend some beer and pizza and you two can knock this out in a day.


-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
#915980 04/06/04 05:08 PM
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Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Hmm, should I tell you how to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster after you insult my car like that?

I guess until you see one in person you'll never open your mind enough to realize that it really is a good fix to the problem. And unlike the hack jobs you keep talking about, this one is permanent.

BTW, to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster (AND AROUND THE GLOVE BOX) you will use rivets. Pull the dash material tight, drill a hole, install rivet, repeat. Be careful around the instrument cluster not to drill too deeply or you will penetrate the top of the dash; starting in the center above the cluster will yield the best results. When doing the glove box it is possible to install the rivets in such a way that they won't show--using masking tape mark where the location of the topmost part of the box side and install the rivets below this point.




The job I did is far from hack and exceeds anything that would come from Ford. It looks perfect and if I hadn't told you it was repaired you wouldn't be able to tell. BTW a much better way to repair the area around the cluster and of course the method that I used is to use 2 part epoxy 2 pieces of flexable wood moulding and some clamps. Apply epoxy use wood to avoid maring the surfaces and clamp. Don't need to worry about drilling holes too deep or crap like that and it's done in 5 minutes.

I'm interested in hearing about how you repair other areas that are peeling like around the airbag as mentioned earlier. Let me guess you decorate your dash with rivits and call it art.


99 CSVT Green/Tan # 84 of 2760 Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998 15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock 75,000Km 96 Contour GL 2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
#915981 04/06/04 07:54 PM
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Good on you for possibly devising a better solution than Ford. However, spend some summers in the southern US and let's see how the glue method withstands the heating cycles. Personally I'd much rather have a mechanical solution to this bonding problem in the defroster area, especially a solution that utilizes the metal subframe of the entire dash assembly as it's attachment point and not the plastic substrate underneath the foam.

The rivets around the instrument cluster and glovebox was, again, from the Ford documention. That information is posted above. I have no experience with warping around the air bag location and will not speak to a possible solution.

Based on all your posts from earlier in the thread I thought using a '98 dash was THE way to solve this problem, what are you doing repairing yours?


-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
#915982 04/06/04 08:27 PM
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Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Based on all your posts from earlier in the thread I thought using a '98 dash was THE way to solve this problem, what are you doing repairing yours?




Waiting for a suitable dash to become available. FYI it gets just as hot here in the summer as it is there. We don't all live in igloo's you know. BTW glue and epoxy are two different beasts that do similar jobs.


99 CSVT Green/Tan # 84 of 2760 Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998 15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock 75,000Km 96 Contour GL 2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
#915983 04/07/04 01:58 AM
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I cannot believe that is what everyone calls uber ugly, that is not that bad. When mine does go bad, I will use that. IMHO


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