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OK, I finnally figured out the problem. For all of your with high temp problems, pay attention. OK, the car was running right into the red on the temp guage, it was starting cold and, as the engine warmed up, the guage would go up smoothly and go into the red. The gauge did not peg, but would stay in the middle of the red and go up a little(say at idle or hard driving) and sometimes drop slightly. So first thing i did was put in a new thermostat, I was hoping it was that simple. It wasn't. Then I realized the fans were not coming on, and they should, the engine was very hot, needle in the red. I upluged the top temp sensor, the one for the fans, and they turned on. I figured that temp sensor must be bad. I bought a new one, the fans still did not turn on, So I unplugged it so the fans would turn on. The temp dropped slowly, but still not out of the red. I decided, maybe if I run a cooler thermostat. I went out and bought a 180 deg. thermostat. It ran a little cooler, now at the beginning of the red, but still in the red. Well I had been hoping it wasn't the water pump the whole time so far, but now it seemed like all signs were pointing to the water pump. It seems like the plastic impellers must have broken off and the water wasn't being circulated enough to keep the engine cool. So Saturday morning I pulled out the water pump. I knew I was screwed when the water pump impellers were intact. I put a new waterpump in anyway, since I already had the old one out. I was talking to my mechanic freind who seemed to think my radiator was clogged. I actually pulled the radiator thinking I was going to change it for a new one. But using the hose, it looked to me like the radiator was flowing just fine. Well we decided at this point to check the accuracy of the guage. We put everything back together and completely flushed the system and put in new antifreeze, no change in the water temp reading. My freind owns a shop so I borrowed his Autodiagnostics OBD-II scanner and this cool little laser temp guage thing(it tells you the temp of whatever you aim it at) Both the Scanner and temp guage kept a reading of around 180 degrees. Damn. I held my foot on the brake and reved the engine to get the car to run hotter, at about 205-210 on the scanner, the temp guage in the car was pegged at this point the cooling fans came on. So it was the f'in guage, or the sending unit. I will be changing the sending unit first one night this week and the guage if that does not fix it. Thanks for reading this post, I just needed to vent, i worked all weekend on this car for nothing

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Well Mistake, you've gotten to know more about our Zetec. Now you can help me and others, when they do their waterpump.


1992 Ford Escort LX-E -Tracer LTS spoiler -GT Grille
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98mitake, you did a good thing!! You are now graduated by having contributed to the knowledge base that is CEG. You have become immortal, for all future Ztec temp problems will be pointed to this thread & YOUR contribution will live on.

Nice going!! and thanks on behalf of all of CEG!! <bows>


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Your post described perfectly the consequences of swapping parts to try to fix a problem without proper testing. Hopefully your message will be heeded by someone down the road.

That quick test with the laser pointer IR thermometer would have saved you a weekend of work and a bunch of money. You can buy one at Sears for only $50.

Good luck..

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
Your post described perfectly the consequences of swapping parts to try to fix a problem without proper testing. Hopefully your message will be heeded by someone down the road.

That quick test with the laser pointer IR thermometer would have saved you a weekend of work and a bunch of money. You can buy one at Sears for only $50.

Good luck..

Steve




Thats the truth! Although this episode only cost me $105, $10 for each thermostat, $20 for the fan temp sensor, $60 for the waterpump and $5 for coolant. I could have put the orginal water pump back in and saved $50, but I figured the car has 73000 miles on it, I was better off just putting the new one in anyway as preventive maintence. It all goes to show how having the right tools matter. Oh, by the way, I was suprised how easy it was to change the water pump, the serp belt was the hardest part!

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I dont care, my contour runs like [censored] when the engine gets above the OM mark. So I made a modification!
www.geocities.com/contourkev/ectp1.html


Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan --Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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Damn, seeing my old intake brings a tear to my eye for how hard I worked on that old car... dammit.. Im going to bed.


95 Mystique GS Zetec ATX: Dead - Dec 5th, 2003 94 Accord LX 2.2L MTX Non-Vtec. Few bolt ons. 02 Escape XLT 3.0 V6 ATX. This thing has the CD4E in it?! What the hell was ford thinking?
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Its a beautiful intake, I love that thing...
im neglecting cleaning it tho


Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan --Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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My contour overheated on my roadtrip last week during springbreak. However I knew exactly what the problem was--the blown fuse for the fans. I temporarily stole the fuse from the ABS to make it home. I knew it was the fuse right away since I had blown it a few weeks prior after I clogged my fans with mud after doing some offroading. I had to replace the entire fan assembly cause after the mud froze, it cracked the housing to pieces and the fan motor was all clogged up. But you even said yourself that your fans weren't coming on. I know it wasn't the problem with yours, but jesus, all that trouble when that's what it could've been.

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Originally posted by ContourKev:
I dont care, my contour runs like [censored] when the engine gets above the OM mark. So I made a modification!
www.geocities.com/contourkev/ectp1.html




Now this makes mew curious, 2 weeks ago I blew the upper rad hose. The next weekend I blew the return heater core hose right underneath Said upper hose. Long story short I finally have the system bleed of air and all and it is now running in the A range. It used to be in the m to low a range. Your mod there drops your temprature that much? If so have you noticed a difference in gas mileage. Reason I ask is the hotter the day outside or the hotter my little Zetec is running the better the mileage I get. i.e my last little road trip got me 450miles with still another 50 miles worth of gas left in the tank. It was running in the A. Previous best for similar air temprature and mileage would be about 50 miles less. Question that remains to me is does the Zetec run extra hot on purpose in an effort to get better mileage?


Green 96 mystique gs 4cyl mtx 16.9 in the 1/4 mile @102500 miles 95SE in Midnight Red MTX MSDS headers and y-pipe SVT exhaust SVT UIM Optimized se TB. Full pre 98 SVT body kit 15.741 @ 87.73mph :)
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