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You need to remember on our cars there is the fan switch and temp sender. Both located on the thermostat housing. I replaced my fan switch and the car seams to keep a little cooler. If the sending unit for the gauge was at fault it wouldn't always read in the middle of normal while driving and creep up to the a or L when not moving, because the thermostat prevents water from circulating much until it is at the right temp. Meaning that there should be little movement on the gauge between driving down the road and holding still, just seems like the fan turns on late on these cars.


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Originally posted by 96mercury:
You need to remember on our cars there is the fan switch and temp sender. Both located on the thermostat housing. I replaced my fan switch and the car seams to keep a little cooler. If the sending unit for the gauge was at fault it wouldn't always read in the middle of normal while driving and creep up to the a or L when not moving, because the thermostat prevents water from circulating much until it is at the right temp. Meaning that there should be little movement on the gauge between driving down the road and holding still, just seems like the fan turns on late on these cars.




I need to replace that switch as well. I think the 190's is a little too high and a 180's would be better in these cars since the low speed waits so long to cut on.

I don't know what the problem is here for everyone else. Seems to me if the car is running fine and the guage is showing really low or high numbers then the sender is going bad. If the guage and sender are good then I'd have no clue what is wrong. These cars should go to M and L and this is normal unless the switch is changed to turn on the low speed fans sooner.




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Originally posted by 96mercury:
You need to remember on our cars there is the fan switch and temp sender. Both located on the thermostat housing. I replaced my fan switch and the car seams to keep a little cooler. If the sending unit for the gauge was at fault it wouldn't always read in the middle of normal while driving and creep up to the a or L when not moving, because the thermostat prevents water from circulating much until it is at the right temp. Meaning that there should be little movement on the gauge between driving down the road and holding still, just seems like the fan turns on late on these cars.




That's incorrect. There is a Temp SENDER for the gauge and the coolant SENSOR for the PCM which is what controls the fan. The fan on the Zetec doesn't come on until almost in to the red, unless you turn on your a/c. Driving down the road you have air flowing through the radiator cooling the coolant. Your car once warmed will usually read the coolest while driving because of that. Idling there is no air circulation cooling the coolant until the fan kicks in. All the thermostat does is stay closed until it reaches the temp it's calibrated for(190 in this case) at which point it opens up and allows cooled coolant in to the engine. It's mainly there to help get your car up to operating temp quicker and to give you heat. Once it's open it's open as long as the coolant doesn't go below 190 (or what ever it is calibrated for). Ofcourse now it helps with emissions purposes also because a warmer car produces less harmful emissions. If you didn't have a thermostat it would take a while for the engine to reach operating temp. In these cars that causes a CE light and rich fuel misture.

From your post that I quoted I'm not sure if I feel that you're actually overheating. If your gague is showing at "a" or "l" while idling, then that is not too far from the average. I wouldn't be suspecting anything wrong. Changing to a 180 thermostat would make the car run cooler while driving, but the fan will still kick in at just under the red.

Tronx....I get what your saying, but I've been working on cars for many many years and it is a sending unit for the gauge and a sensor for the pcm. This goes back many years. Some cars combine both in to one sensor/sender. When you go to buy one for the gauge if you ask for a sensor you will get the wrong part. It's just an old standard that goes back before engine management computers.


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At the 2 auto parts stores I went to, the Temp gauge sender is called/listed under:
Switches: Temperature

Basically, a temperature switch.

btw:
I replaced the Temp SW/Sender and used a 180 thermostat and now the needle stays around M with the new parts.



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OK. I replaced the thermostat(180) and Temp switch/sender and the gauge sits around M and A in NORMAL when driving around.

Yesterday, the toll bridge went up and I had to sit for about 6 minutes and idle.

As the car was idling, the temp gauge creeped up to the line right after the letter L but never went into the Red.

I heard the fan kick on and the gauge needle dropped a little bit going back to the right most part/bottom of the letter L


I turned on the heater and it's blowing hot air with no problem.

From this point on, the gauge reads at L even when the car was moving.

I checked under the hood when I got home and no coolant leaks and no boiling in the coolant reservoir.


I'm going to get me a cooking thermometer tonight and check the temps.

1.
So, if I read 190-210ish, is that considered normal coolant temp ?

2.
Could air bubbles trapped in the coolant system/hoses cause this issue ?

3.
Any suggestions on what could be the issue ?


.


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Here's another thing to consider. If you have a/c, the radiator may be blocked by years of bug guts and leaf debris in between the radiator and the a/c condensor. With the current symptom you're describing it sounds like that may a contributer. Either that or there is some restriction in your radiator. Once you start moving your temp should go back down the M reading your started out with. If it doesn't then that is a sympton of what I described above. If your radiator is blocked in between it and the condensor, the only way to really clean it is to remove it and back wash it from the engine side forwrd. Doingit while it is still in the car will only lodge it in to the condensor.


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OK, so far I've replaced:
Water pump
Temp switch/sender to the Temp gauge
Installed 180 thermostat
Temp sensor(the one that goes to PCM/ECU)
Coolant flush.

The temp gauge sits around M in NORMAL when the car warms up after 10-15 minutes or is moving on the highway.
Then, if I'm in stop and go traffic, the gauge eventually goes to L or even to the line after L before the Red.

(I've checked the coolant when the temp gauge is at this level/indication and it's not boiling and the tank feels hot but normal.
Also, the coolant level doesn't change in the coolant resevoir tank and oil is not milky in anyway.)

The low speed fan kicks on when the temp gauge reads at the line after L from time to time but the gauge never goes back down to M until I start cruising again.
The gauge never goes to Red.

The heater blows hot air like no tomorrow and I can cool down the engine a little more by turning on the AC to activate the high speed fan.

I think I have a flaky temp gauge since the fan does kick on but hanging around the line after L kind of bothers me.

1.
How many people have their temp gauge read high like that but consider it a normal reading ?


Any suggestions, clues, hints or advise is welcomed.


thanks.


98 Contour GL/03 ZX3 Focus/05 ZX3 SES Focus
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Did you read my previous post regarding the radiator?????


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Originally posted by microtonal:
OK, so far I've replaced:
Water pump
Temp switch/sender to the Temp gauge
Installed 180 thermostat
Temp sensor(the one that goes to PCM/ECU)
Coolant flush.

The temp gauge sits around M in NORMAL when the car warms up after 10-15 minutes or is moving on the highway.
Then, if I'm in stop and go traffic, the gauge eventually goes to L or even to the line after L before the Red.

(I've checked the coolant when the temp gauge is at this level/indication and it's not boiling and the tank feels hot but normal.
Also, the coolant level doesn't change in the coolant resevoir tank and oil is not milky in anyway.)

The low speed fan kicks on when the temp gauge reads at the line after L from time to time but the gauge never goes back down to M until I start cruising again.
The gauge never goes to Red.

The heater blows hot air like no tomorrow and I can cool down the engine a little more by turning on the AC to activate the high speed fan.

I think I have a flaky temp gauge since the fan does kick on but hanging around the line after L kind of bothers me.

1.
How many people have their temp gauge read high like that but consider it a normal reading ?


Any suggestions, clues, hints or advise is welcomed.


thanks.





Originally posted by Figols:
Did you read my previous post regarding the radiator?????







done all of that and still have the same problem

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ok, now I'm confused

Was this thread hyjacked or are we dealing with the same person/car/problem? It started with 98mistake, then goes to microtonal, and now a response to my response to microtonal from ContourRacing20 responding as if my response to microtonal was to him/her(ContourRacing20). ?????????


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