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What's confusing ?

The issues at hand deal with possible overheating or a misleading temp gauge display.

I think the people in this thread felt that it's better to discuss simular issues in a single thread instead of creating 10 of the same.

That just cludders up the forum.

I did a search and found this thread and decided to continue it instead of creating my own which would be basically the same issue as this thread.


ContourRacing20 is stating that he did all the things I did including the radiator check as suggested.


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exactly.....im just stumpted on what to do next....i was just posting that to see if there is anything else i could do.

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Originally posted by microtonal:
What's confusing ?






The fact that I was trying to help you out with your problem then out of no where ContourRacing20 pops up and answers as if to you. Especially since ContourRacing20 doesn't have one single post in this thread before that. No big deal, just confusing.

Originally posted by microtonal:

That just cludders up the forum.

I did a search and found this thread and decided to continue it instead of creating my own which would be basically the same issue as this thread.




I disagree. I think the general concensus is to just link the old thread to your new one.

Originally posted by microtonal:

ContourRacing20 is stating that he did all the things I did including the radiator check as suggested.




If you didn't pull the radiator(and I didn't read that you did) then you didn't do the "radiator check" as I suggested. The only way you can clean it or even see the debris is to either remove the a/c condensor or remove the radiator. It gets really packed in there. Just hitting it with a pressure washer while it is in the car will not clean it. The radiator is easier to remove so I usually go that route.

I base this on the fact that from your description it appears that there isn't enough volume of air making it through the radiator fins to cool the coolant when you're moving or when the fan kicks on. Based on that I also base this on my experiance of working on cars for over 20 years and owning almost 40 Contiques since 95 (and fixing them). I've found this to be the case many times on ANY vehicle that has the a/c condensor in front of the radiator. On top of that you've replaced everything in the cooling system.

Now there is the possibility that there is nothing wrong with your car at all. The only way to tell true coolant temp is to use a thermometer. If it read right around 200 degrees when the car is warm, then I don't think you have a problem. If it reads about 240 when the fan kicks in then again, I don't think there is a problem, other than the gauge or wiring to the gauge. Another thing that will affect cooling is your coolant mixture. It needs to be 50/50 otherwise your car will run warmer. Adding more straight coolant does not make your car run cooler.


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I know someone mentioned using a cooking thermometer to check the temp.

So to check the temp, would inserting the thermometer into the coolant resevoir when the temp gauge is at L or past L work ?

Also, if I decide to just install an aftermarket water/temp gauge, were is the best location to install one ?

btw:
Thanks for your input Figols.
It's definitely appreciated when people have issues that don't seem to clear up when you would think they would with all the things changed/checked.


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There is nothing wrong, this is normal for these cars.
I wish they would run at low all the time, but don't.
You did the right thing by using the 180 over the 190.

Has anyone tried using a 160?

So long as steam is not pooring out of your car then this all looks normal to me. If you want you can try a bottle of redline waterwetter which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30�°F.


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Originally posted by microtonal:

1.
How many people have their temp gauge read high like that but consider it a normal reading ?


Any suggestions, clues, hints or advise is welcomed.


thanks.




I just recently had my cooling system done on the '96. The mechanic himself was a bit concerned when he looked at the temp guage which was reading at the "L", but he checked the coolant temp with a thermometer, and it was reading 190* which is right since there's a 190* thermostat in there.

I guess it's just normal.


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It does not help that most cars run at low all the time and only kick on high at those temps. Waiting for the car to reach 190 is why their are dryrott issues with the wires. Then again we are talking about a Ford built car, wires never being a strong point for them, then you add super hot temps.

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hmm ok heres my 2 cents, i hope i get some feed back cause half the time I post its like at the end of the thread like and no one gets any of it.

I changed my coolant the other day, used a flusher to get rid of any crap in the system. Done all fine and dandy except for getting that stupid bleeder screw off! So when i go to work the next day I notice the temp gauge is reading a little higher than it used too. I used 50-50 mix and even dumped a bottle of water wetter in the thing but when i get in stop and go it shoots up to the "L". Never really did that before. SSooooo Im wondering if maybe because i took off the rad shield (big plastic peice underneath engine) and never put it back on could contribute to this? I also messed up and when I used the rad flush i put it in with the coolant, was supposed to be just water and the rad flush - would that do anything? I changed the thermostat last summer, so i doubt its that.


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Originally posted by loggerbomb:


hmm ok heres my 2 cents, i hope i get some feed back cause half the time I post its like at the end of the thread like and no one gets any of it.

I changed my coolant the other day, used a flusher to get rid of any crap in the system. Done all fine and dandy except for getting that stupid bleeder screw off! So when i go to work the next day I notice the temp gauge is reading a little higher than it used too. I used 50-50 mix and even dumped a bottle of water wetter in the thing but when i get in stop and go it shoots up to the "L". Never really did that before. SSooooo Im wondering if maybe because i took off the rad shield (big plastic peice underneath engine) and never put it back on could contribute to this? I also messed up and when I used the rad flush i put it in with the coolant, was supposed to be just water and the rad flush - would that do anything? I changed the thermostat last summer, so i doubt its that.




It's hard to say because the days are getting hotter now that summer is here.

50/50 is good, Water Wetter is gravey.

Temperature sender or guage could be off a little?

The temperature switch on top of housing if it's the OEM part at 190's could be replaced for a 180's.

So long as the Rad was washed out it should be fine.


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Originally posted by loggerbomb:
SSooooo Im wondering if maybe because i took off the rad shield (big plastic peice underneath engine) and never put it back on could contribute to this?




I'm also wondering if that is hurting things. I put in a 180 thermostat and totally flushed my system last year only to have the same or hotter readings. I never really thought that not having the plastic piece could be causing the problem. It makes sense though. It's easier for the air to go in through the front of the bumper and just dump out the bottom before the radiator.

Does everyone here that is having problems have that piece removed?

BP


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