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Ok, first off, I spent all night the other nite using the search function. Here's my problem. The car is a 98 Mystique with the 2.0 Zetec and an auto. The car has always run a little hot, end of the "M" or so in "NORMAL". Its my wifes car, so I don't drive it every day. I got in it the other night and the guage was going into the red. ut-oh. So its like 8 pm, the only place open is Pep-Boys, I run and get a new thermostat(stock temp), and no change. I read on here to try a 180 degree thermostat, put that it, no change, still going into the red. Then I realize the cooling fans are not coming on. I unplug the top sensor and the fans do turn on. So the fans work. I figure that sensor must be bad. Oh I pull the wire and drove it around a bit with the fans on and it was still going into the red. So For the heck of it I change the sensor, the temp still goes into the red, but the fans are not turning on. Now all along I have been thinking(and dreading) water pump. But the heat does still blow very hot. Also even with the new sensor for the cooling fans, the fans are not turning on( but do if you unplug it). Could the sensor for the guage be faulty that it is making the temperature read hotter that the coolant really is? Or am I changing a water pump this weekend? All advise and comments greatly appreciated.

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It could be the sensor for the gauge, and it could also be the gauge itself. Does the gauge appear to be accurate when the engine is cold?


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Yeah, the guage reads fine, cold when the car is just started up,and it warms up, and keeps going to red. I mean, it appears the gauge is working, maybe the sensor? I think i'm gunna end up changing a waterpump tomorrow. Is there anyway I check the water temp anotherway? There's no stupid cap on the radiator, anywhere else?

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With cars that have a normal top of the radiator fill cap you can check the water pumps condition rather easily. You simply let the car cool overnight and then open the radiator cap. Start the car and then look in the radiator to see if the fluid is cirrculating. I am not sure how you would determine a water pump failure in our cars though. Is there any way to mount an external temp probe into the colant systme to verify if the car is getting to hot?
If you need to replace the water pump you should have the timming belt and all the tensioners replaced at the same time to avoid doubling your labor costs.
I have one question though. Is changing the thermostat on a Ztech difficult and where can i get the 180 degree thermostat?

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Changing the thermostat is very simple. Just like three screws and coolant all over your driveway. Most people have been able to find the 180 at any parts store. I saw one person got a 180 from a parts store and had problems with it, but others haven't. I got mine from www.zxtuner.com though it costs more than a part store's thermostat.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Its the [censored] fan!! I replaced my ECT Sensor, still didnt work... That fan was my problem!!!! (Now rigged it, www.geocities.com/contourkev/ectp1.html )
That worked for me!
Though I plan to get more pictures of the actual finished product
That was a website I made in like 5 minutes


Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan --Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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I really don't think its the fans. Even when I unplug it and drive it with the fans on it overheats, into the red. Well I changed the waterpump this morning, and that wasn't it. Damn. I flushed the sysytem and put in fresh coolant. Still no good. Now its one of 2 things(i think) the radiator or the head gasket. I hate this stupid car

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Compression Check? (Take all spark plugs out and do each cylinder individually)


Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan --Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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I am might do a compression check on it tomorrow. But that won't confirm its not the head gasket, depends on where the gasket goes at. I starting to think its either the coolant gauge temp sensor or the temp guage itself. Check this out. I changed the sensor that turns the fans on at certain temp and the fans do not go on, so maybe the car is not getting hot enuff, maybe the guage is wrong. I'm going to get a cheap temp guage tomorrow and hook it up into the spot for the temp sensor and see how hot it gets. First I have to put the radiator back in. I pulled in and ran the hose thru it. Its not clogged at all, it flows just fine

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I know this topic is old but I have the same sort of issue.

Just bought a 98 Contour GL/2.0L, auto tranny with 91K.
Car runs fine and feels strong considering the mileage.
The water pump and thermostat housing and parts around it appear to be new/replaced.
No leaks around the motor or any of the cooling system parts/hoses.

Issue:
Temp gauge sits around the L in NORMAL after about 10-15 minutes of driving after initial startup.
Goes down to A from time to time on the highway or steady driving.

The cooling fans appear to work and the car seems fine but I want to make sure I'm not over looking anything.


1.
98Mistake, did you get your issue resolved ?


2.
Does any auto parts store do a free read of the ECU to check the actual temp of the car ?


After reading some threads, I'm wondering if it's just the temp gauge giving me a "false" HOT reading...


Any suggestions are welcome.


98 Contour GL/03 ZX3 Focus/05 ZX3 SES Focus
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