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just a thought...  I did a search or two and didnt find much of a result, so here I go. Has anybody tried blueprinting the SVT engine? It seems to me that these engines would be a pretty good starting point for a high revving engine build up. The heads flow really well, and can be made to flow better. Weve got a pretty tricky intake manifold and our engines make peak power right near redline as it is. In addition to this, the Duratech has got a pretty short stroke and comes stock with a forged crank and if i remembenr correctly forged connecting rods as well. It seems like a little crank balancing and head porting would yield an engine not completely disimilar to the NSX. Granted the NSX is 3.0 or 3.2 liters, but its got the aluminum block, 4 valve heads, 60 degree V6, comparable stroke, and the forged crank. I know its probably easier to go 3.0, but revving the 2.5 up to 8k rpm would yield you about 235 HP at the crank, and be one of the sweetest sounding V6s out there, with both the low end grunt afforded by the secondaries, and top end power of the 4 valve heads.
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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i dont think the rods are forged.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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By SVT Contour brochure calls them "sinter forged connecting rods".
99 SVT Contour Silver Frost, #365/2760, DMD
98 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro Tiptronic, 30V -- SOLD!
91 Isuzu Impulse XS Kammback, Handling By Lotus
Victoria, BC, Canada
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it's D U R A T E C, not tech.
99' SVT #811 of 2760
Born on january, 12, 1999.
"This may have been his only shot at number one, but he just sucks on so many levels that I couldnā??t even let him win a contest of suckiness."
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so besides my mispelling of duratec, does anybody have any reasoning as to why nobody has tried this?
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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i accidentally put this post int he duratec maintenence forum instead of the duratec performance, could the moderator please move it for me? thanks.
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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I believe Terry Haines of HMS did this to his non-SVT 2.5L Duratec (balance and blueprint). You might try contacting him on the details; I unfortunately don't have his information and he doesn't post here anymore. Someone here should be able to PM his contact info to you, though.
The rods are sinter-forged; not the strongest way to build them, apparently, but it does help in keeping them very similar in weight (a good thing on engines that live in higher RPMs).
Rick Blackford (Buckshot77) has done some work to his crank (balanced and knife-edged, I believe). Might bounce the idea off of him, too. A fair number of people here have done some head work on their 2.5Ls and 3.0Ls, with varying results.
I don't know about an 8K redline on the Duratec; with the right components and assembly I don't doubt for a minute that the engine could handle it. It's the accessories I would worry about...
I think we have a few guys (DemonSVT being one of them) holding 7300 or 7500 RPM redlines; outside of guys that use their Duratecs as pure race engines, I can't recall anybody pushing their engine this fast...
I have to believe that with the money you would put into a 2.5L to get it to safely spin 8K on a daily basis without worry, you would be at least halfway to a turbo kit.
JaTo
e-Tough Guy
Missouri City, TX
99 Contour SVT
#143/2760
00 Corvette Coupe
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Originally posted by 99SVT666: so besides my mispelling of duratec, does anybody have any reasoning as to why nobody has tried this?
It's expensive and not worth the $$$ with the hp results.
And not as reliable.
Add a turbo kit with 6-8psi on a stock internals, and with a good driver, you'll be in 13's (that's been shown here).
I'm currently in the process of getting my heads worked for a turbo, and believe you me, it's expensive enough to put the $$$$ for a forged internal turbo only engine. . .I don't think anyone except for a SCCA racer would do that with our cars, where you can blueprint and get the right parts needed to sit at 8k (which is pointless because you'll have to rebuild every season with the oil problems inherent to our engine setup).
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omg who cares about spelling didnt know this was elementary contour.org
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Originally posted by JaTo: 1. The rods are sinter-forged; not the strongest way to build them, apparently, but it does help in keeping them very similar in weight (a good thing on engines that live in higher RPMs).
2. Rick Blackford (Buckshot77) has done some work to his crank (balanced and knife-edged, I believe). Might bounce the idea off of him, too. A fair number of people here have done some head work on their 2.5Ls and 3.0Ls, with varying results.
3. I don't know about an 8K redline on the Duratec; with the right components and assembly I don't doubt for a minute that the engine could handle it. It's the accessories I would worry about...
4. I think we have a few guys (DemonSVT being one of them) holding 7300 or 7500 RPM redlines; outside of guys that use their Duratecs as pure race engines, I can't recall anybody pushing their engine this fast...
5. I have to believe that with the money you would put into a 2.5L to get it to safely spin 8K on a daily basis without worry, you would be at least halfway to a turbo kit.
1. Actually sinter forging makes a more uniform grain pattern through the piece thus making it more stable.
2. I WOULD NOT lighten the crank at all. Matter of fact I would strongly recommend using the heavier counterbalanced 3L crank.
Head work all depends. I am a firm believer that airflow theory and velocity far outweigh max "flowbench" numbers. 'nuff said!
3. I ran an 8k+ redline for a year of daily driving. The only problems I had were oiling and ring sealing related.
Would I recommend it. HELL NO!!!
4. I use 7500 hard (fuel) / 7400 soft (timing) redline now. I rarely hit it except in 1st or 2nd because the revs spin up so damn fast now.
My shifting normally is around 7300ish.
I've put out much information about spinning up the Duratec. Without serious oiling upgrades it's a one way trip to engine failure. NO question about it!
5. I whole-heartedly concur!!! It would be much cheaper to turbo your car then to build a high rpm screamer. Not only would it be a heck of a lot more reliable but you would also make exponentially more power. (were are talking night and day more usable power folks!)
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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