Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Is this enough Dynamat?

You might wanna get rid of the vents or at least cover them up

The high temp mastic also is the same as dynamat original at 1.00 per square foot. How much was the "deathmetal" stuff you used?

A handful of people on this board have used it and reported positive results (same thing minus the logos).

I used some poly-backed roofing material, but needed two layers as it's thinner. It was a bit harder to work with than dynamat/imitation-dynamat.

Cool thanks for the input!

You asked:
Did you use that spray on sound deadener or just dynamat for the rear deck because it get ugly in that area. Were you using a heat gun? When you say I should stuff the rear deck with Thinsulate, what exactly do mean by that? Is that the material they put in pillows? Wouldn't that kill any sound coming from the sub? What's MDF? Sorry about all the questions, but the search option didn't really tell me what I needed to know.

I use dynamat with a heat gun. The spray stuff can be messy but I do like it better than dynamat because it can deaden and stiffen all at the same time. Dynamat only deadens.

Thinsulate is made by DuPont and normally seen in winter gloves, coats and shoes.
Looks like pillow stiffing, but you want high density or pile and the fibers appear to mesh differently, making it a great thermal insulator that happens to be a great sound insulator.

Control how sound gets into the car. I mounted 2 15's behind the rear seat with no noise issues and no sound deadening for 2 years. I won Finals with no sound deadening in the rear of the car. The box and panel sealed off the rear of the car and rear deck, so no noise issues from these areas.

If you mount subs in the trunk firing at the deck lid and/or rear package tray without controlling how the sound gets through, don't be surprised if it rattles. The more power, cone area and X-max, the greater the potential for rattles. Just control how the sound goes through.

Oh, MDF, Medium Density Fiber, Basically it is wood pulp that has been mixed and cured. It's not particleboard but it's the same concept with finer wood (pulp) being pressed into sheets.

Thanks 2deep2. You say I should control how the sound goes through. Are you talking about how I position the subwoofers? I have three 10" JL W6 subwoofers set in a "acclaimed" custom box. Should I have them face the driver or the trunk lid. I was also thinking about cutting a hole in the rear deck and covering it with a speaker enclosure to allow for more air to get out of the trunk. Would that help?

Deathmetal is good stuff. I bought 36 sq./ft. for $50; shipping was covered.

I heard removing the vents should clear up some rattling. Do I remove the entire vent and cover the gap with sound deadener or do I just tape it shut?

Yeah those vents made a bad rattling sound. Then I took them out and no more rattling. I do notice some more dirt in the trunk than normal though. Kind of weird. Someone said that those vents need to be there or something...hahaha

Peace.

Behind the seat or port through the rear deck should result I less rattle, less need for mastic.

Also when you make sure the sound is getting in the car you can get more impact and greater subsonic detail at the driver seat

Both set-ups should result in more sound in the cabin and will not be as loud outside the car as firing a sub to the rear.

I'm told those rear vents allow you to slam your trunk. If you simply close the vents air will trap inside creating pressure preventing you from slamming your trunk close. With the vents closed the harder you slam the harder the lid should spring back at you and not close. I cracked half of one open and closed the others. I also don't slam my trunk, but I can.