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I think if the TPS was bad, it would throw a code being too rich or lean. It can only compensate something like 30% rich or lean before throwing a code. Wouldn't the TPS cause driveability problems as well?



No, I verified it's not a TPS problem. I broke out the modern-day divining rod (also know as the Fluke multimeter) and measured voltage output as a function of throttle plate angular displacement. To measure that angle I just hooked up a little lightweight fish scale tension spring in series with a potentiometer to the throttle arm, measured spring extension as various throttle openings, and converted to degrees using the arctangent function in Excel. The resulting angle vs. volts transfer function is quite linear (albeit showing some hysteresis)and verifies that the TPS is ok.

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I really don't see any point in converting to drum brakes. Disc brakes will stop better and are less prone to heat exhaustion.



You totally missed the 50s, didn't you? Those drum brakes could last forever, baby. As you probably noticed with my Polara, I set my cars up for the long haul. So, as preventative maintenance, I figure drums will be a good swap, since they seem to last forever. Also, I can then sell my disks to one of those Zetec gomers that wants to upgrade and add another mod to their CEG signature. Lastly, have you been able to find any asbestos disk brake pads? No, I didn't think so. If you want the real deal (asbestos), you gotta go drums.

About the ground loop: I added the capacitor to act as a ground loop filter, to quell some of those grounding transients. I have heard that on cold start, the ground loop can get very spiky and even approach instability. And if the ground loop is iffy, then what about all the electronical circuits that reference it? Garbage in, garbage out. So I got this little capacitor at Radio Racer's Shack. The kid there was even nice enough to put my name, number, and address in their database so they can contact me about exciting offers in the future.

-Harden