Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting DAMMIT!!!! Please read/help...

Ok, today is my first of many mod days this week while I'm out of school. Each scene is followed by a question or two. I will list all of my wounds at the end of the post for everyone's enjoyment.

Scene 1: I've got CEL code P0430-front cylinder bank pre-cat belown optimum threshold. To fix this, I swapped the upper O2 sensor with one that was in a set of used exhaust manifolds. I did the upper sensor because after a search, I came to the conclusion that the general cause of this code is the upper sensor instead of the lower. The used one I put in is from an SVT and it looked different than mine. The SVT O2 sensor sticks out into the exhaust manifold just as far, but it has many more pores in the protrusion. So that was confusing, but I clipped the wires and soldered the new (SVT used) O2 sensor to my old harness.

Question 1) Why are there two identical white wires on the O2 sensor? Since they're the same color, does it matter if you mix them up when installing a new sensor?


Scene 2: My car has 68k miles and has yet to have the UIM/LIM/TB cleaned. So, I started to do that. Crap I didn't know there were so many damn different sized bolts all around the UIM!! Anyway, the vacuum hoses on the top of the UIM, right after the TB, they don't come off easy. I broke the longer one closest to the TB. I am going to break it off at the other end and take it to Ford to see if they have one in stock. Otherwise, I'll order one from one of the online parts stores.

Question 2) What is this vacuum hose? Where does it go? What does it do?
Question 3) What's the easiest way to remove the vacuum hoses without breaking them?

Scene 3: Car has 68k and stock plugs. I put on new plug wires about 4-5 months ago and they fixed whatever problem I was having and can't remember right now. I pulled off the IMRC cover and the IMRC. I started with #6 and when I got the old plug out, it looks completely different from the new plugs I got from SP Motorsports.

Old plug facts:
Motorcraft Platinum
AWSF 32F Edit-this is the listed model # on SP's page
has ~1/2 of threaded area as the new plug that screws into head

New plug facts:
Motorcraft Platinum
AGSP 32FM Edit-I can't find this number anywhere for another vehicle
Has twice as much threaded area as the old plug

The problem is, the new plug seems to be bigger in diameter than the old plug, so it won't screw into the head. I tried putting the old plug back in and it bit right into the head and was getting tight right away. The new plug will just sit and spin on the opening. I help them up right next to each other and the new plug really does seem bigger.

Question 4) What is the difference between AWSF 32F and AGSP 32FM? And which should I have?

Wound #1: while using a flat head screw driver to try to pry off the vacuum hoses (scene 1); it slipped and took a decent chunk out of very end of my left thumb. It is still bleeding, but I put a band aid over it and taped it up tight with electrical tape so it won't come off. It hurts like a basid because of all the grease and whatnot that was already all over my hands.


Finally, I have a second vehicle so don't worry about me drivin around with a broke vacuum hose. I'll beat around in our 92 Ranger.

I fuc_ing hate cutting my hands when I'm working on the car!!! Clean it up with hydrogen peroxide and a good band aide. If it continues bleeding you need to get it sewn up.. ouch!

I would suggest a set of auto work gloves. They do pay for themselves

I can only help on #2, but for the spark plugs, can you take the one you just took out to the parts store? Or is the Tour your only ride?

I had a broken vacuum line on my Tour on top of the UIM (The two lines side by side??, right by TB) Taped it for a quick fix, but eventually figured now is the time to get it done right. I had to order it from Ford, but it's not outrageous. $20 or so in that area. I think one is brake vacuum, the other EGR, or accessory vacuum

You can remove it from the UIM by placing a flathead under the part of the tube which ducts into the UIM. It's a pretty tight fit and by prying up at that point, the vacuum line will come up.

Hope this helps.

1) P0420/0430 codes are not due to the O2 sensors. Please read the Ford service manual. The two white wires are for the heater. They are not polarized so thier connection order is irrelevent.

2) Post a picture of where it came from. If that was one of the hoses going to the valve covers, they have a "latch" in the ends.

3) Pray. The plastic gets brittle from age and there is little you can do to prevent them from breaking.

4) Look on your emmissions certificate under the hood to see what the recommended plug is. Then, call your Ford dealer and ask them what the current plug should be.

Duct tape works to hold a makeshift bandage on, also.

Steve

I Think ican help with question #1...(a little maybe)..
There are two gray wires ...one is the o2 heater wire (solid gray) and the other is the heater ground (gray w/ black stripe i think)... the two solid white wires is how the computer reads and controls the air fuel mixture. I am not sure EXACTLY, but once the o2 heater reaches its burn point, it relays a message in millivolts to the computer.
if the sweep ( reading ) is not within a certain range say...400-500 millivolts then the computer triggers the CEL. Now as to which one of the white wires does what im not sure... I put in MIL eliminators on both of my #2 sensors and my CEL went away...and i know i screwed up which white wire i spliced into...
However i have not had any other problems..Hope this helps...

Actually now that i think about it, I believe i have the colors swapped with the wire functions...any one else have the ford service manual in front of them???

Thanks for the help guys. Nate-that's what I did to pry them up and that's how it broke. I didn't try it The Count's way, but I'm too fed up with it to try again. As for the plugs, well don't diss the Ford dealerships anymore!

I brought my wrong plugs to the Ford dealer and told 'em I got the wrong ones. I never said I bought them there from them; just that they were the wrong ones and I wanted to know what was right. The guy at the counter looked up the right number and swapped 'em out no questions asked!! I checked their gaps by the Haynes' manual and each one is spot on!


As for the vacuum hose-yeah it's the one that goes to the brake booster. It will be a tough fix as it broke almost flush with the top of the UIM. I will try to take out the broken bit by The Count's method, then I'll melt them back together with a soldering iron. I reckon that'll work until I can hit a boneyard.


Finally, as for my thumb, the chunk of skin was still attached and the blood under it dried; so it's good as new!!


New Scene!!

Scene 4: while changing my plugs (I've only done half-the front cylinder bank; it's lunch time dammit!) the plug in cylinder 4 or 5 (cylinder on the passenger side-front bank) had some oil on it. It wasn't a lot, and there was only a little bit in the tube that goes down to the plug. I think that could be from being right by the oil filler cap and maybe the oil change joint spilled some oil there. The back of the Haynes' manual, there's a bunch of pics of different spark plugs that are old and/or broken. My old plugs don't match any of those pics. It says a normally worn out plug will have a sorta greyish color on the bare metal, but mine all are black.

Question 5) My plugs are almost black. Is the car rich, lean, or just fine?

Ok guys, guess what!??!! I HAVE NO CEL AT ALL ANYMORE!!! The new (used-new to me) O2 sensor cured what ailed me and all is well. The car has a real rough idle, but I reckon that's from the broke vacuum hose. While the car was running, I plugged the hole on top of the UIM with my last good finger and the idle smoothed out, so when I fix that, all will be well.

Wound 2: While removing the plug from cylinder 3 (in da back) the ratchet slipped and I gouged my left pinky finger on somethings. It bleed for a long time; even after I wrapped it in electrical tape. There was still blood oozing out; real gross.

Wound 3: While re-installing the coil pack, I scraped the back of my hand on the underside of the wiper cowl. Now I've got a big "J" cut into the back of my left hand.

Let's see, all 3 wounds for today are on my left hand. Coincedence? I think my right hand and my subconsciousness have it in for poor lefty. Meh, I'm a righty anyway.


Thanks for the help guys. I'm done for today. I'm sure there will be Act 2 tomorrow. I still have to fix the vacuum hose.

WAIT!!

Don't melt the plastic thingie. The recepticles are very tightly sized, so if you melt or weld that nipple, you may get the thing stuck in your UIM and NEVER get it out!

Use your spare car to get to the bone yard & pick up a replacement.

If the nipple is not badly deformed, you might be able to super glue it & let it sit overnight. No, forget I said this....just get to the bone yard.

I was thinking about the superglue idea. So the junkyard would be best? The big yard I usually go to doesn't keep the engines. I reckon I'll have to make some phone calls; and do outside work; in the rain; in March; in the snow; buck naked; uphill; both ways, etc. Yeah ok, that's what I figured I'd have to do anyway.