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Originally posted by Cookie Monster:
Scene 1: I've got CEL code P0430-front cylinder bank pre-cat belown optimum threshold. To fix this, I swapped the upper O2 sensor with one that was in a set of used exhaust manifolds. I did the upper sensor because after a search, I came to the conclusion that the general cause of this code is the upper sensor instead of the lower. The used one I put in is from an SVT and it looked different than mine. The SVT O2 sensor sticks out into the exhaust manifold just as far, but it has many more pores in the protrusion. So that was confusing, but I clipped the wires and soldered the new (SVT used) O2 sensor to my old harness.

Question 1) Why are there two identical white wires on the O2 sensor? Since they're the same color, does it matter if you mix them up when installing a new sensor?







Hey Eric? Let me get this striaght here... You cut the connectors, for your 02 sensors, off your vehicle harness and the 02 sensor??

If so, why did you do that? IIRC, the upper sensor connectors should be the same, across all model Tours. There should have been no cutting involved. Now, the connectors are different for up stream and downstream. You know, the sensor on top is called upstream and the sensor on bottom is called the downstream. These connectors are different, so that if you try to install one in the worng location, you can't. Well, not without cutting the wires.

As for the CEL, don't hold your breath. You are not out of the woods yet. You will have to drive the car through two drive cycles, then see if the light comes back on. A drive cycle is a complete warm up of the vehicle, while driving, which will allow the PCM to run self test on all sensors it has information stored for.

Oh yeah... get yourself a pair of Mechanix Wear gloves. they are only about $20, and judgeing by the amount of blood you lost yesterday, you could have donated a pint and took the money and bought a pair. Just picking on a brother...


Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by unisys12:

As for the CEL, don't hold your breath. You are not out of the woods yet. You will have to drive the car through two drive cycles, then see if the light comes back on. A drive cycle is a complete warm up of the vehicle, while driving, which will allow the PCM to run self test on all sensors it has information stored for.





Also, the cat monitor test has to run because he was getting a P0430. That could take a while.


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And get some of these


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
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Did you remove the UIM to clean it or use the alternative method?


BTW, this SVT exhaust is still sitting in the garage with your name on it!


-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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As for the gloves, keep an eye out at Sears.

They have their mechanic's gloves on sale at half price several times a year. When this coincides with a Craftsman Club event or a special 10% off event, you can get them for $9.00 plus tax. I've caught them as such with the Club overlapping the 10%. With my employee discount, I've bought a $19.99 pair of gloves for $7.29 plus tax.

We call that a "Triple-Dip Discount Plus"!

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Phil-the spare O2 sensor I had was already cut. It was stuck in a pre-cat I got from Simon a while ago when I first got the code. I had the shop swap the manifolds and the CEL was still there, so I figured it was the O2 sensor gone bad. Methinks that's what it was.

Matt-sorry mangh, I'm not working as much right now; I'm in school all the time. So I don't/won't have money for that until I win the lottery. If ya want, I can come mow your grass a couple times and we'll call it even.

GLOVES!??!?!! I don't need no stinkin gloves! Actually, I don't like to work in them, my fingers are wicked skinny and that makes the gloves uncomfortable. I haven't found any that fit well and give the same control and dexterity as bare-handed.



Ok, today's mods so far:

I took the TB back off the UIM and was able to finally get the broken end of the vacuum hose out of the UIM. I put the TB back on and got it all tightened up nice. The hole where the vacuum hose was is still open and empty. I still hadn't cleaned the UIM, so I put a screw with a washer in the hole. One of the screws that holds the non-SVT v6 airbox to the MAF fits almost perfectly. The bolt itself is smaller than the hole, and the washer can cover the entire hole if it's centered. I sprayed some B12 carb cleaner in a cup. With the motor running, (started right up-no hestitation at all!!) I pushed open the TB cable to suck in more air. Then I pushed the screw off to a side so there is just a teeny tiny gap and slowly poured the carb cleaner in. As the motor would kinda slow down, I'd recover the hole and rev it up a little to let it work the B12 through. I dunno how much I used, not much though. I read somewheres to use about 1/2 of a 16oz can. I think I might have used 1/4th or so.


So now, I still have to figure out what to do with the vacuum hose. Can I glue it back together? Can I melt it back together? Should I go buy a new/new to me hose? The car runs perfectly fine sitting in the garage with that hole plugged; but I think I'll have this small circle on my finger forever.


And no, I have not driven the car in the present state. The lack of a seal UIM on top prevents the car from maintaining any kind of idle.


Lastly, I watched Hitchcock's 'The Birds' while I ate lunch. Yeah, I'm gonna push the car back in the garage and shut the doors.


I still have many mods to do, many parts to break, and many wounds the get.


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Um... that's your brake booster line. Don't drive the freakin' car without brakes. It pisses me off.

Get to the bone yard or web site to scavenge a replacement, or you can pick one up from the dealer. Didn't somebody say they were under $20?


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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The dealer had no idea what part I was talking about. I haven't driven it anywhere. It's in my garage, out of the rain.


I haven't driven it since Sunday. My truck has a lot of 'get up' but not a lot of 'go'. Stop the gas and WA!aaaaaa....Oh well, that's what ya get with a 3.0L with 148k miles!


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Originally posted by Cookie Monster:
The dealer had no idea what part I was talking about. I haven't driven it anywhere. It's in my garage, out of the rain.


I haven't driven it since Sunday. My truck has a lot of 'get up' but not a lot of 'go'. Stop the gas and WA!aaaaaa....Oh well, that's what ya get with a 3.0L with 148k miles!




Two options, take the broken one to the dealer, or have them show you the exploded view of the Duratec on the computer and point it out to them.


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
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That's just what I did. I yanked off what was left and took it to the dealer. They didn't have one in stock, but they ordered one and I'll pick it up in the morning. $24.04 for brakes to work. Hmmm, yeah I guess that's a good deal. Besides, I can justify paying them $24 for a piece of plastic, because they pretty much gave me a set of spark plugs yesterday!!


Oh, in between this and my last post, my trunk went from:


to bare metal. I washed the inside of the trunk and sprayed about 2 full cans of rubberized undercoating in the trunk to deaden road noise and vibration. Thursday I'm going to line the trunk in felt, then make a false floor with a trap door to get to the spare and stuff. Oh, BTW-Phil, Matt, anyone who's met me, I'm quite the bodybuilder ( ) and the sub/amp/changer/box setup in my trunk weighs just a little under 100lbs. I am wore out from carrying that damn thing into the house!!

I also ran new power wire for the amp, and started on running a direct speaker cable to the front passenger door; it's shortin out somehow, so I'm gonna just bypass the factory wiring altogether.

Now is bath time, I've got to go pick up the lady in the bad ass truck. Oh, and in case anyone was wondering, no, rubberized undercoating does not come out of clothes, nor will it wash off of skin.


Finally, HAPPY 3000 POSTS TO ME!!!


2000 Contour SE 2.5L ATX - Toreador Red 2001 VW Golf GLS 2.0L MTX - Tornado Red Buy my possessed VCR!!
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