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Okay folks... My CD4E in '96 LX V6 has a cracked housing. My mechanic told me that it's caused by ruined engine mounts (since replaced). It's leaking fluid every day, enough so that I carry a bottle of Mercon in my car at ALL times (and a funnel, of course).

I am seriously considering replacement or rebuild/overhaul. As I want to keep this car for a while (it's ALMOST paid for!) I need some suggestions.

My local Ford dealer parts guy said I could order the casing (about $500?) and overhaul kit ($100) and give it to a shop to overhaul, then reinstall. I'm guessing this will cost me about $1200-1500?

Else I can get a rebuilt tranny or a new tranny for about $2000 + installation (plus/minus a couple hundred).

As my funds are limited I'm thinking of overhaul/rebuild existing tranny (it runs fine, really). If so, what should I add to this tranny to help it last longer? the Jr kit? Or aftermarket overhaul kit? Other? Additional tranny cooler?

Lastly, can someone suggest a tranny rebuilder that's willing to do all this in or near San Francisco?


Just a plain jane '96 LX V-6 here...
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I'm in the middle of rebuilding my own. I checked pricing on Bill Jenkins site and the trans housing is almost $500 dollars as you say. My trans was riding on the frame also and I replaced the atx mount. It now rides about an inch above the frame. The outside of the case is worn from where it was riding on the frame but it is not cracked - guess i'm one of the lucky ones here! If you get a rebuilt trans they are going to charge you a core charge of 300 to 500 dollars, and when they see your case you will probably not get your core charge back.

If you were going to do the work yourself, I'd say get a new case and rebuild your trans...you still come out way ahead. If you are not doing the work yourself a new case with labor and rebuild is probably up or over 2000 dollars. You can get a brand new atx from Ford for 1800 dollars from what I seen. So it may be best to see what type of deal you could work out with a respectable Ford dealer that could give you a break on labor, etc.

Amazing what a collapsed not broke motor mount could cause...you gotta love Ford engineers...Ford tough as they say!!!! You got to wonder what was going through their head when they were designing this car with the cad software package....who actually says well give it an inch clearance here, or actually give it a .233 inch clearance over there. I love my Saturn L200. Open the hood, and there is so much room I could almost stand in the enginecomparment with the engine still in there.



An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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I think I know someone in town who's going to be chaper than you think. They overhauled an Aerostar tranny for about a grand, cheaper than expected.

As for Saturn, is L200 a V6 or a regular 4?


Just a plain jane '96 LX V-6 here...
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Do you want to check If JB-weld stuff that great as it claims to be ?



Kirill 98.5 Silver Frost Contour SE Sport (powered by Duratec) traded for 01 Audi A6 2.7T in September 04. Some stuff for sale in classifiends: http://www.contour.org/classifieds/classifieds.php?t=1&c=1
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Find someone to weld the case up is your cheapest fix.


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Considering I used JB Weld on mine.....I guess how well it works is not known until I get the trans back in the car. I would say it would depend on where you crack is at. If it is at a seal area, then I don't think you would be able to get the seal to adhere correctly. Other it is an external area on the case away from seals, etc. I probably would try draining the atx and cleaning the area, roughing it up a bit and try JB weld. Can't hurt anything on the exterior of the case?


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i JB welded mine, and it worked perfect, no more leaks!!.

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Take the case to a good welding shop and have them TIG weld the crack. Your case takes a lot more stress that a rear wheel driver.


Sarge43 "00" Tique 2.0L I4 ATX "98" Mustang 3.8L V6 AT The reason there's so much ignorance is that those who have it are so eager to share it.

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