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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 163
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 163 |
Check the wiring harness and megafuse before proceeding. Just my opinion. ... 95-98 ish tours have a wiring harness recall and that makes me wonder if Ford really did anything about the 99-00 wiring harnesses.
a D*CK SLAP IN THE FACE IS ALL I GET FOR STICKING MY NECK OUT FOR A FORD... PLEASE DELETE MY ACCOUNT!
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3 |
the first time i had a huge system but then i took it out. . .thanks for the help.
i will check the connections. if i keephaving problems and other people have the same problems then all of us should combine documents and go to ford and get a recal>? or is that to anal?
thanks lonny
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149 |
Originally posted by brianl703:
At idle, that 130 amp altenator is capable of putting out 80 amps @ 13.5 volts or so (the output voltage will drop as the voltage regulator heats up, but never below about 13V).
It shouldn't be dropping as low as you are reporting. No way, no how. At 12.2V, you are discharging the battery. At 11.8V you are discharging it even more. Not good.
It's normal for the voltage to drop that low with all of the accessories on at idle in a 1988 Mustang GT with a 65-amp alternator[which, in fact, is why I replaced with a 130-amp alternator], but it is NOT normal for any Contour.
If I had to take a guess I'd say that one of the alternator diodes has gone bad. That usually causes diminished alternator output, with the possible side-effect of causing a battery drain when the engine is off.
Originally posted by stepmar2:
Money,
The nominal range with all accessories on is 13.2-14.2V. If you are reading 11.8-12.2V your battery is not getting charged. You probobly already know that though. What you probobly didn't know is that you ground and positive cables could be at fault and that is about a 50% chance roughly. Check the integrity of those first as well as the mega fuse which is located near the firewall on the back of the wiring harness central section right under the ignition module on Duratec 2.5L. If those both look and test fine then proceed with alternator removal and get it tested before you buy it. If at all possible, remove the voltage regulator and check the brushes for dirt, oil, dust, and corrosion. You may be able to check out cheap without having to buy a complete unit. Voltage regulator is $30 compared to $130 at Auto Zone.
If you do all this and still have no luck, check your wiring harness. Those aren't cheap from Ford either..
IDEA.. find one used and test it first if needed! 
Thanks, exactly the kind of info I was looking for!
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 851
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 851 |
Originally posted by stepmar2:
Ford really did anything about the 99-00 wiring harnesses.
You can test by applying a hot soldering iron to the wire insulation. If it starts melting, it's the wrong insulation.
If it won't melt, it's the right insulation.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149 |
Just a quick update... Got a new alternator from Bill Jenkins and spent a decent chunck of Sunday installing it. What everyone says about installing an alternator is spot on--it sucks. Had we had a socket big enough we would've pulled the axle just to make things easier, it wasn't necessary obviously but probably would've save time in the end.
Voltage readings at idle hovered around 14.35 IIRC.
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1 |
Hello! I had some problems a while back with an electrical gremlin running amuck in my 95 Zetec, and one thing I learned is never take your electrical parts to AutoZone, advance, orielly's or apparently any parts store! I went to three different stores with my alternator and I got three COMPLETELY different diagnoses! Never mind NONE of them was correct! (all of which, by the way, were followed with the suggestion to buy a new one -"Oh, sure, we've got that $180 part in stock!") What I learned was to take your parts to a starter shop to have them tested. They'll test for free and in my case all I needed was new brushes ($20).
-L
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