Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting alternator question

My car is a 1998 Mystique V6 MTX with 55000 miles. I bought the car 6 mo ago (3300 miles ago). Since I have owned it, the charging system light has flickered above 4000 RPMs. Today, for the first time I am getting the flickering light at engine idle up to about 1500 RPMs (but this didn't happen every single time I was below 1500 RPMs). I have read the archives about how difficult it is to change the alternator but I was wondering if the voltage regulator and brushes can be changed out without removing the alternator from the car. The regulator appears to be on the outside of the alternator case (from the exploded views I have seen). The brushes appear to only be reachable by complete disassembly of the alternator after the alternator is removed from the car. Is this correct? Is it worth a try to change these parts before removing and replacing the alternator? Do my symptoms suggest these parts are bad or do I need to replace the alternator?

If I need to replace the alternator, I have read in the archives that the alternator can be removed from the passenger wheelwell after removing the tierod from the steering arm. Removal of the passenger side axle shaft isn't necessary. Is this correct?

I plan on doing the voltage test in the Chilton manual tomorrow to try to confirm the alternator/regulator is the problem. I have no garage and the daylight hours are short after I get off work so I hope I can keep driving until this weekend!

why not take it to auto zone or some place like that and let them give you a free charging system check..........
it might save you some time........

well if his light is flashing at idle, thats got to be his alternator. I'd be willing to put quite a bit of money on the alternator being bad.

By the way, my 98 SVT does the same aroudn 5K RPMS, guess ill hafta change mine soon.

It is possible to take the regulator off with the alternator still on if you have small enough hands, but you'll probably have to take the Y-pipe off to make room. There are four screws with the star type head holding it on, and be careful not to undo the two that hold the brushes on inside, you don't want them falling loose into the alternator. Like someone said before, I guess you can get your charging system tested at Autozone. I have a problem of my own if someone can help. My alternator went out and I tested my battery with a voltmeter with the car running and it wasn't putting out what it's supposed to. So being poor at the time, I buy an alt. from a junkyard. I tried switching out the brushes and regulator from the used junkyard one into the one already on the car. It helped a tiny bit but not enough to keep the battery charged after driving for a long time. So I put the junkyard alt. on with the brushes and regulator that was on it before. My car charges now, but I can't leave my car sitting for over six hours because something drains my battery. So I've been unhooking my battery cable when I know I'll be leaving it sit for a while. This drain started only after alt. troubles, and I checked fuse by fuse to see if the power drain would go away and it didn't. I think it was something like a 1.25 volt drain.

So, can this be caused by that 175 amp fuse?
If so where is this fuse?

Or, can a bad regulator do this? I know the brushes are good.

Leaky diode? Suggestions?

Thanks, and sorry for long post.

~Paul

I live on Orcas Island, Washington. It would take a full day For me to take my car to the mainland to a store where my electrical problem could be evaluated. About removing the voltage regulator: I get the impression from the last post that the brushes are reachable after the regulator is removed. How do I remove the regulator without removing all 4 screws? Which 2 of the 4 regulator attachment screws also hold the brushes in?

Iâ??ve got a 99 Contour SE sport V6. I can only speak to the question of removing the alternator. I am only an amateur mechanic, but I just spent the last few weekends doing exactly this. The answer is, yes, you can remove the alternator through the passenger wheel well by disconnecting one tie rod. Thereâ??s lots of room to extract it, once you get the alternator bolts off. Getting those upper and lower alternator bolts loose, however, is a real bear that will try your patience. The truth is that if you choose your technique right, with the car up on jack stands, all you really need is a standard 3/8 socket wrench and a good 13 mm socket. But finding the right combination of body position and entry point is the **real** trick.

If you can get to the 4 screws that hold the regulator in place... these are torx(spelling) bit screws.. either a T-20 or T-25..not sure which. Disconnect the battery before you remove the regulator. All 4 screws must be removed to take the regulator out. You will probably need a 1/4" drive rachet + extensions and the bits. Be careful not to strip out the heads on the screws. Good Luck..