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My 96 SE Tour has a bad missing/stumbling problem up to 3000 rpm and then it clears up and run good as ever. As long as I keep it over 3000 rpm it runs fine. When the engine cuts out the tack does no jump down and back up. I can rev in neutral and revs just fine too. I can here the fuel pump run when I turn the key and it sounds same as always. It started doing this at 1/4 tank so I filled it up and it still did it....dirt in fuel pump?? Fuel filter was replaced 800 miles ago. Plugs/wires are very old (embarrassed to say how old) and the coil pack is original. One more thing, when the engine is COLD it does not cut out at all....Cold it runs fine??
My 1st thought was coil but have seen a lot of post in my search about the sensitivity of the plugs. Could one plug cause, what I would call a sever missing/stumbling. Or to run that bad would it be something that effects the entire motor like a coil or fuel pump??? Is Motorcraft AZFS-22PP the right plug for a V6?
How much did you pay for plugs/wires coil and fuel pump????
Thanks
Louie
96 Contour SE,V6,5 speed,Black w/tan Leather, metal WP,heated mirrors,engine block heater
02 Ford 4x4 F250 Crew Cab,7.3 TURBO Diesel,6 speed,400 HP and 800 TQ
01 GMC,All Wheel Drive,loaded
69 Karmann Ghia Convertible,Body off restoration
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Joined: Jul 2000
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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could be coil. Hows the idle sound.. choppy?
Also check to make sure your secondaries are opening and the linkage hasn't disconnected.
You know where your secondary linkage is don't you?
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 52
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Nate'sTour:
could be coil. Hows the idle sound.. choppy?
Also check to make sure your secondaries are opening and the linkage hasn't disconnected.
You know where your secondary linkage is don't you?
Idle is smooth. I can feel the secondaries open up when I get on it hard but I never checked the linkage.
96 Contour SE,V6,5 speed,Black w/tan Leather, metal WP,heated mirrors,engine block heater
02 Ford 4x4 F250 Crew Cab,7.3 TURBO Diesel,6 speed,400 HP and 800 TQ
01 GMC,All Wheel Drive,loaded
69 Karmann Ghia Convertible,Body off restoration
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,382
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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It's under the TB up against the vee of the block. A lever that moves back and forth as RPM's rise above 3800 RPM (or so)
Can't hurt to look.
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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If your going to buy plugs and wires, buy Bosch.
They are very expensive anyway you go at it, you can only buy Premimun for Contours. It was like $80 for the plug wires and like $60 for the plugs, on a 4 cylinder. So more for your car.
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Originally posted by HITMANinMI:
If your going to buy plugs and wires, buy Bosch.
They are very expensive anyway you go at it, you can only buy Premimun for Contours.
Don't get Bosch plugs!!!! Not for a Duratec engine!! Read link
Deffinately start with spark plugs and wires.
Get Autolite APP764 Double Platniums or Factory plugs only!!
For wires get Magnecore, Stock from dealer or Autolite Pro-fit.
read my thread. Warm engine misfire V6 ATX- Problem solved
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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CEG\'er
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quote....
Deffinately start with spark plugs and wires.
Get Autolite APP764 Double Platniums or Factory plugs only!!
I read your missing on warm engine and it sounds like I should start with the fuel pump. Still makes no sense why a cold or hot engine would matter when it comes to the fuel pump???
96 Contour SE,V6,5 speed,Black w/tan Leather, metal WP,heated mirrors,engine block heater
02 Ford 4x4 F250 Crew Cab,7.3 TURBO Diesel,6 speed,400 HP and 800 TQ
01 GMC,All Wheel Drive,loaded
69 Karmann Ghia Convertible,Body off restoration
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,017
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by 96contourSE:
quote....
Deffinately start with spark plugs and wires.
Get Autolite APP764 Double Platniums or Factory plugs only!!
I read your missing on warm engine and it sounds like I should start with the fuel pump.
Still makes no sense why a cold or hot engine would matter when it comes to the fuel pump???
Plugs and wires are cheaper then replacing the fuel pump and yours are really old.
So I would start with this first.
As for the fuel pump, it has to do with heat in the engine bay and if it's not pushing the
proper pressure then what little fuel is there is vapourizing. On a cold engine it doesn't vapourize.
Just my thoughts no real data to back it up.
Are you getting any check engine lights?
Dose it blink and then stay lit?
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Got the Motorcraft AGSF322PPM plugs and FMS wire set. I will put them on in the morning. Funny thing today, after a bought the plugs I washed out the motor really good. Now I have a really badly missing motor. I think it has to be a bad wire set because of how easy the water effected the idle and missing. I have washed the motor off before and it has never run bad at all after. After the wash I now have the CEL flash.
96 Contour SE,V6,5 speed,Black w/tan Leather, metal WP,heated mirrors,engine block heater
02 Ford 4x4 F250 Crew Cab,7.3 TURBO Diesel,6 speed,400 HP and 800 TQ
01 GMC,All Wheel Drive,loaded
69 Karmann Ghia Convertible,Body off restoration
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Posts: 610
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Maybe because a cold engine takes more fuel, therefore running the fuel pumps harder and getting more of a suction. Also revving above 3,000 rpm doing about the same thing?
2001 BMW 325i Sport, Stickshift 
'96 Mercury Mystique V6 *TOTALLED* 
For sale:
Alpine CDA-9811
Eclipse Amplifier
Pioneer Tweeters
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