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Agreed!
Anti-sieze works wonders! Use it on your license plate bolts as well!
About that top bolt, with the wheel off (duh!) I remember that the wrench has to turn clockwise as you're looking at it. With that closed ended wrench set at about the 3:00 position, the end of it should be sticking out enough to the right of the rotor that you can whack it pretty good with that mallet. Like I said, don't even bother with a socket set. What size is that bolt anyways???
I can't imagine that a few good wacks with that doesn't free it up.
Good luck!!!
Reminds me of an oil filter my dad and I were trying to get off his old Datsun/Nissian pick-up. We tried everything to get it off. Finally it came off, then we beat the sh_t out of it with an axe to burn off the anger we'd built up trying to get it loose!
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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breaker bar worked good for mine.
NEED AN SVT REAR BUMPER!!! pm me
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nate its a 15mm....I wacked at it for a good 30 minutes but no luck. I did do a good job of starting to round it off though, and gave up. These were put on way too tight, but once I get them off I will make sure to antiseize them. I'm gonna go ahead and get replacement bolts anyhow, but I will antiseize those.
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i mean just turn the wheel, with the car off the ground you shouldn't even have to turn the steering wheel to move it. Originally posted by JonGordo8:
how do you turn the hub? I am gonna get a piece of pipe tomorrow and jack the car as high as I can get it and see if I can get enough leverage to break these bolts and get this side done.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Jon that SUCKS!
I hate it when a simple project gets to be a pain.
Good luck! Get new caliper bolts too, and destroy the old ones with that hammer!
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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alright I got the bottom bolt off...a piece of pipe works wonders  but the top bolt while trying to get it off I rounded it off pretty bad. I am not in a good position now. I got the new bolts, but obviously can't put them on til I get the top off. Any suggestions?
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Maybe get vice-grips on it? Then beat it. Or, you can grind down two side to get an adjustable wrench on it. There will be more material to grab, so you can apply mroe torque. Maybe add some heat to the situation, watch the rubber brake line though.... Speaking of heat... weld something on it then get it off as a last resort. You obviously don't need to salvage the bolt, so do whatever to it. I hope this helps. I've used both techniques on other things, the first one on caliper bolts on a 91 Regal GS.
2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150
HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers
2003 Silverstone Z
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I'd go with the vice grip solution. and tighten that mofo down like never before. I mean finger pinching tight!
You're 1/2 there. Remember, destroy those old bolts when you're done, beat them back to hell where they came from!
OH, an on your new bolts, grease the shaft with a little general grease. Man that sounds dirty 
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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Keep applying Blaster, or WD 40, or something like that. Let it sit for a day or so if you have to, and keep spraying it periodically.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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well everyone I got those damn bolts off! A project that should have taken an hour or so took almost 2 days! What a pain. Torqued new bolts to 20 ft/pds, so I will never have this problem again. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Now I just have to wait for my bro to get home and help me bleed the brakes, then I am done. Thanks again to everyone
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