Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle ATX Rebuild Picture Story

i think jb weld could do it, we use it in our 3L hybrids

personally id take it to a welder in your area, its a better solution

Hmmm... So cracked tranny case CAN be welded or even JBWelded? That increases my options somewhat... (I have a cracked tranny case too).

I don't know about welded. But I did some research and the JB Weld product seems too good to be true. It states in has been used in cylinder heads! Impervious to oil, gasoline, water, etc. and can withstand vibration, pressure, etc. I am going this route and see how it works. This product has been around for quite some time from what I understand......

First item checked is Drive Carrier and differential assembly. No chips, nicks, etc. All is fine.

Next item checked is the low one-way clutch assembly, It was taken apart and cleaned, inspected and all is well. Check was made of proper rotation within race to be sure it was reassembled correctly, etc.

Forward One Way Clutch assembly was taken aprt and inspected. No nicks, chipped teeth, etc. Reassembled and checked for proper rotation within race.


Driven needle bearing in case was replaced with threaded rod and puller. No problems here.

Lube tube was removed from seal in case. Seal in case was removed and replaced. Lube tube was reassembled. Apparently this lube tube is a pressure fit into this seal. The valve body provides oil to this valley which the lube tube then drips onto the driven needle bearing in case - where axle goes through. It is critical to replace this seal to ensure that good fit is made between seal and tube.

One tool that I will have to purchase is a seal protector kit. The piston seal on the clutch piston, etc. has to be compressed for it to fit into the piston assembly - other wise it is quite easy to pinch or damage the seal. I am getting a quote from Transtar Industries that has this kit in their catalog.....I hope it is not too much!!!!!

The other tool that is perhaps needed is the clutch spring compressor. This item is over a hundred dollars and more from what I have seen. However, I went out and bought 2 6" C clamps $9.99 each. I then placed 2 flat bars on the other side of the direct housing. The base of the c-clamps resed on this bar and I just clamped down on the spring retainers until I had enough room to remove the retaining clip. Total cost $20 vs $100 and more.

On disassembling the Forward/Coast Direct Clutch Cylinder assembly, I find I need to replace the retainer and springs - there are two of them. These are not that expensive. I also have to replace the Forward Clutch piston assembly. This part is about $60. I had some grooves warn into the inner surface where the coast clutch piston fits.... The rest of this assembly has been checked and is fine.

Now out to buy some JB Weld for the cracked case.....

Could you recommend a good solvent? Thanks for the tips I'll certainly follow them....

Bob

OK, I was told that for a lip seal protector kit for the CD4E the price of this kit from toolsource would be $110.00!!!!! This seal kit is made by ATEC tools in san antonio. Well I really have a hard time paying for something that I will only use once and that is made out of plastic that is $110. Someone is taking advantage of somebody and it is not me!!! So, I talked to a few people, one ole boy said that when he rebuilt transmissions for a living he used "piano wire" to seat the seals. This got me to thinking, I went out and purchased a sheet of medium gauge plastic. I cut this into a strip of 4 inches high by whatever circumference I needed for the piston. I then wrapped it around the piston and pushed the piston into the assembly.....and you know what happened it worked like a champ!!!! After it was seated, I just pulled the plastic out from the sides with no problem. I thought I'd pass this tip on to those that might want to rebuild their CD4e and come across this problem!!!!!

The next picture is of the case housing that was repaired with JB Weld. First crack was ground down a bit and surrounding surface roughed up, surface was then cleaned with laquer thinner, last JB Weld was mixed and applied





Next Direct/Coast- Coast side Clutch drum is reassembled




Coast Clutch Plunger Assembly




Coast Clutch Piston


Retainer Spring - Coast Clutch






Forward One-Way Clutch and Low-Intermediate Sun Gear Assembly

This was taken apart cleaned, inspected and reassembled. It is import to pay attention to how sprag is reassembled, there is an thin and thick end cap that mounts on the sprag in a specific way according to drag clip orientation.



Low One-Way Clutch Assembly, cleaned and inspected and then reassembled and check for proper rotation that indicates if you reassembled it correctly and or working correctly.



Final Drive Carrier and Differential Assembly,

Cleaned, checked for nicks, etc. and then reassembled.



This weekend I'll include pictures on the final direct/coast drum assembly completion.

Making progress!!!

Well, I assembled the coast/drive clutch/drum and performed a pressure test. It turns out I had a leaking seal. removed the pistons and found one seal was torn. Looks like my homemade plastic wrap did not quite work. I have broke down and purchased a the seal piston kit locally. I have also picked up a replacement piston from Ford, it was only around 7 dollars or so. I will retake pictures using the seal piston protectors..... Guess I'll have this up for sale when I'm through with it! The pressure test method with an air compressor is a nice way to check proper sealing BEFORE it is installed back in the car! I plan on having everything back together this weekend.