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Hey Fastcougar!

The kit does have the endplate adapter and bar. I'll get you some pics of the trans mount on engine stand. The kit also has a plate to allow you to mount it on the engine stand. In the atx case there is a needle bearing that is pressed into the case. I recommend replacing this. You have to press it out. The kit has the two adapters for removing and installing the bearing into the case, however, a threaded rod is needed with two nuts to press this bearing out. I went to O'Reilly's and bought a threaded rod with two nuts and used this, it worked perfectly. The new bearing from ford is like 12 dollars, very reasonable. When I return the kit I'll includ the rod and nuts, my small way of saying thank you.

The only problem that I have so far, is that I don't have bushing tools to remove and replace the bushings. I talked to a machine shop that is doing my engine work, he doesn't normally do anything with transmissions, but he said bring the parts by and he'll see if he has the bushing adapters to remove and replace. A bushing tool is nothing but a large flat washer shape piece of metal that you use to pound out the busing and pound it back in. The prices I've seen on the internet are outrageous to say the least! Tomorrow, I'll begin to reassemble my trans with pics of course.

I did have a devil of a problem removing a pin on the drive selector rod in case. It broke in half when I was removing it and I wasn't able to get the rod out. I then tried to remove the seal with it in place and it popped out quite easily. I cleaned the shaft, lubed it and the seal and the new one popped right in place with only a little pressure needed. I just ensured the remaining pin was in firmly and didn't really have to take it out since I was able to replace the seal anyway.

I figure by Saturday I should have this trans back together if the machine shop can help me with the bushings...if not I'll have to find another way to replace the bushings....

From what I read bushing clearance is critical for effective fluid transfer. Thus the reason I really want to replace all these bushings...The bushing kit was only like 27 dollars for all.....

Bob


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Well found my first problem on disassembly and cleaning. Forward clutch pack had a broken plastic washer(Washer - Direct Drum/Direct Shell). It was in pieces. Circular piston seals were also hard as a rock and did not seem to be sealing..... wonder what would have caused this washer to fall apart - maybe high temp? What I could see of the washer it did not seem to be worn just broken up in pieces. More and more I'm starting to suspect the oil pump blew out....I'll include pictures soon.....



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Originally posted by btrautman:
Well found my first problem on disassembly and cleaning. Forward clutch pack had a broken plastic washer(Washer - Direct Drum/Direct Shell). It was in pieces. ..... wonder what would have caused this washer to fall apart - maybe high temp? What I could see of the washer it did not seem to be worn just broken up in pieces. More and more I'm starting to suspect the oil pump blew out....I'll include pictures soon.....






The early model CD4E's, 94-late 97 to early 98, had the old style filter, which did not have the baypass. Ford found early on, in Europe, the forward/direct clutch packs were burnning up durning extended high rpm operation. They redesigned alot of different things, including forward sprag, direct drum, steel plates and this is also when they switched to Kevlar Composite clutches.

Anyway, it too another company to find that at high rpms, the clutch pack in question is actually starved of fluid. This will of course induce a nice amount of heat and wear.

Hope some of that helps you find out what possible went on.


Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Can someone tell me where I can find the atx serial number on the transmission? I need to verify what serial number I have.

Thanks,
Bob


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Well, when I was getting ready to reassemble the trans, I spotted this, Is this what it seems to be????




Last edited by unisys12; 12/11/04 12:29 AM.

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Yikes ... looks like a nice big crack to me

If it's inside the casing, I would be worried about using some JB Weld. The case is aluminum, so it would require a TIG welder to fix that crack.

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Originally posted by btrautman:
Can someone tell me where I can find the atx serial number on the transmission? I need to verify what serial number I have.

Thanks,
Bob





You should be able to find the serial number on the bottom of the valve body cover. There should be a decal there that has all that info on it.

Man! That is one heck of big crack!!


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For Sale! Rare vintage auto decor regal planter. Planter is in shape of the classic FORD Electronic Shift Control ATX transmission patterend after the now infamous 1995 FORD Contour - the original, the first on the scene in making automative history. I will sell this planter atx case to the first taker at only $500. Please act quickly it won't last long at this price!!!!

WANTED: Leads on a the best pricing on a Ford ATX case for 95 Contour.

Thanks,
Bob

Last edited by btrautman; 02/28/04 11:18 PM.

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Originally posted by btrautman:
WANTED: Leads on a the best pricing on a Ford ATX case for 95 Contour.

Thanks,
Bob





Check here and you will find a few. Not sure if any of them are in your area, but I think you know where I am going with this.


Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Well, After much research I've decided I'm going to push forward with this rebuild and use JB Weld to seal this crack.

Here is there url that talks about the product.

http://www.jbweld.net/coldweld.html

Please let me know what you think!

Thanks,
Bob




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