Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting door lock outputs

hey guys, im still in the process of installing my new alarm. I have done pretty much all of the ignition and power wires, siren, shock sensor, glass sensor, etc. BUUUUTTT.....

i hooked up the lock and unlock wires to the lock/unlock wires as specified in the "how-to" write up (made sure they are the right ones by running direct 12v to them to lock and unlock the doors), however when I arm and disarm my alarm, the doors will not lock or unlock.

do i need a relay? hopefully somebody can give me some insight into this problem. my alarm basically says that it puts 12v power through these lock/unlock wires to the door lock output wires of the car. so im kind of confused.

and one more question-does anybody know of a detailed write-up explanation of how to hook up the starter disable feature? the instructions for my alarm are pretty vague as far as which wires from the relay go where. once again, thanks for any help. im hoping somebody can contribute. TIA.

actually, after some research i have another question:

does anybody know if we have 3 wire door lock setup or 5 wire?

Unless your alarm has on-board relays for the power door lock outputs (most do not and it will say whether it does or not), yes, you need a relay. Two of them in fact, one for lock and one for unlock.

As far as the starter interrupt, the usual scheme is that the alarm has a starter interrupt wire which is grounded when the alarm is armed. This is connected to the 85 terminal of a relay. The 86 terminal of the relay is connected to a wire that is hot when the key is in the START position. The connection from the ignition switch to the starter is broken and run through the normally-closed contacts of the relay. Sorry, I have no idea what the terminal numbers for the normally-closed contacts are, as the relay I looked at only has normally-open contacts.

(Note: The connection from the ignition switch to the starter is also usually a wire that is hot when the key is in the start position, so this wire may be connected to terminal 86 as well as the normally-closed contacts).

The idea is that when the alarm is armed, an attempt to start the car will supply 12V to the relay coil, which will open up the normally-closed contacts, breaking the circuit between the ignition switch and the starter.

This is how the keyless entry system (Crimestopper CS-865RKE with on-board relays) I installed in my 1988 Mustang GT disables the starter. I used a Crimeguard starter interrupt harness which plugs inbetween the ignition switch and the harness connector. It has a relay wired exactly as I have described above. For $15 it's a good time-saver.

The Crimeguard starter interrupt harness isn't available for the Contour, unfortunately.

It's 3-wire positive:


http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp

I didn't install my alarm, but I did notice the installer programmed the alarm for a long "open" or "Lock" command. Since we use motors rather than solenoids, It takes a longer relay engagement to completely open or close the locks. I don't recall exactly, but the choice was a 1 second pulse or a 3 second pulse. It may of been different times, but make sure the system will pulse long enough to completely open or lock the mechanism.

cool thanks for the detailed help.

one more question for you, my alarm has a 2 wire harness for the door lock. in the manual it says this:

"3 Wire Positive Switched Door Locks
In this application, the red wire provides a positive pulse during disarming (pulsed + 12 volt unlock) output.
Connect the red wire to the wire that provides a low current positive signal from the factory door unlock switch
to the factory door lock control relay.
The green wire provides a positive pulse during arming (pulsed + 12 volt lock) output. Connect the green
wire to the wire that provides"

do you think i still need the relays?

oh and one more question, do the contour svt's have a negative ground output when the door is opened or a +12v output when the door is opened?

Yes you still need the relays, because the door lock wires drive the motors directly. The low-current output from your alarm doesn't have the current capability required for that.

Although there is a factory door lock relay, as far as I can determine all it does is make sure that, when the lock or unlock door button is pushed, the current is applied long enough for the lock motors to do their thing. Once the lock motor has completed it's operation, it closes a switch which tells the door lock relay to stop supplying current.

But that's getting into details that don't really matter...bottom line is that you need relays.

The doorjamb switch grounds the wire connected to it. So it's a negative trigger switch.

brian, thanks again for all the help.

now, can you show me how exactly i would go about hooking the wires on my alarm up to the relays? like, which wires would go where. since i only see 2 door lock wires for the car and 2 door lock wires for the alarm, i am getting confused as to where the 3rd wire comes into play. (work sucked today so my mind is a little tired right now. still want to get it done asap though.