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TighT! yah I guess alot of companys rate there the amps low so you can enter {AND WIN} compitions at a low watt class - like japan cars vs. american, like hell the Evo VII has 276 :rolleyes:
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Originally posted by noknowbalance: Originally posted by SVT Colin: [b]Who cares where it's made as long as it does what you want for a price you're willing to pay? Yah you would think that would be the case, wouldn't you but I've just had much better luck with American made products when it comes to car audio - not stick'n to some trend, just useing common sense of what I've learned over the years - In my case, If I can't aford it - I wait until I can...hinse the void right now in my life in the shape of an M3 [/b]I'd had good luck with almost all of the equipment I've used over the years (except Sony). US, foreign, whatever as long as it performs like it's supposed to. Maybe when I fill my own void with a Lightning, we can race. 
1999 SVT #900/2760 Born on 1-20-99 Silver Frost/Midnight Blue A few aesthetic and audio mods
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Its ON! leme makes me a pit stop at HKS b4 though....hehehe  ..."whats that hissing noise?"  ----------------- 
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Just let me pick up a pulley and some drags. 
1999 SVT #900/2760 Born on 1-20-99 Silver Frost/Midnight Blue A few aesthetic and audio mods
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I just looked at your amp for sale, I want to buy it. How much???
2001 Mercury Cougar Aerogear WideBody Kit, Aerogear Carbon Fiber Hood 3.0 Hybrid 251hp and 229tq at the front wheels Eibach springs, Koni Stuts, Aussie Bar, ST200 R Strut bar, OMP front Strut bar, 19" RPM's 235/35-19 Nitto 555's All Alpine System - IVA-C801, DHA-s680, NVE-N852A, TCS-V430A, TMX-R705, TME-M580 x2, PXA-H900, MRD-M500 x2, MRV-f540 x2, SPS-0829, SPX-F17t, SPX-17m x2, SWR-1021D x4, RUX-4280 http://www.geocities.com/socal_neco/jimmy.htm
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1600 watts RMS, and that's rated at 12.5 volts!
I asked you TonyD cause I noticed you mentioned that you have no light dimming problems, I do cause not only is my amp power hungry, it puts out a lot of watts.
By the way my 12's are wired at 1 ohm.
2000 CSVT #1172 of 2150 Toreador Red...Birthday -> 1/4/2000 *Indiglo Gauges *Drop in K&N *Sylvania SilverStar Highs in Lows *Fog light Fix *Pioneer Premier P730 *Sound by Audiobahn *White HVAC Panel *Security via Ungo MS2007 *Elky Mesh Mod
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Originally posted by bkent: 1600 watts RMS, and that's rated at 12.5 volts!
I asked you TonyD cause I noticed you mentioned that you have no light dimming problems, I do cause not only is my amp power hungry, it puts out a lot of watts.
By the way my 12's are wired at 1 ohm. I decided against the audiobahn for that reason. that's why i said bye bye battery in the earlier post. Gotta give a big thumbs up for "bang-for-the-buck" value. Oh yeah, can't forget how sweet they look too!
1998 SE ATX Dual exhaust Body conversion Nakamichi CD-40z HU Sound by Crystal Mobile Powered by a/d/s M860 AMP My Ride
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Originally posted by bkent: 1600 watts RMS, and that's rated at 12.5 volts!
I asked you TonyD cause I noticed you mentioned that you have no light dimming problems, I do cause not only is my amp power hungry, it puts out a lot of watts.
By the way my 12's are wired at 1 ohm. Lights don't dim? do you have a cap? new alternator? 2nd battery? and is that the only amp you have ?... only reason I ask, I have a 600x1@4ohm + 300x1@4ohm(split 4 ways)-(RMS) and even with my cap fully charged to 14.4 it still dims the lights at idel. Either this amp isn't doing what it says it will or you have some backup of some sorts in between the battery & amp(s). Even my Explorers 4.0 lt V6 dimmed w/the same set up. Both of these are Alpine, so the watts are about correct - 750-950 W RMS.
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Dimming lights isn't due purely to the wattage of an amp. It could be poor vehicle wiring, a low output alternator, an amp with very few/small internal capacitors, a worn alternator, loose accessory belts, inadequate wiring, an old/worn battery, etc...
I'm sure you get the idea. BTW, a few on this board with dimming problems have simply upgraded the (-) battery cable which connects the battery to the chassis and have solved/minimized their dimming problem.
1999 SVT #900/2760 Born on 1-20-99 Silver Frost/Midnight Blue A few aesthetic and audio mods
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Originally posted by SVT Colin: Dimming lights isn't due purely to the wattage of an amp. It could be poor vehicle wiring, a low output alternator, an amp with very few/small internal capacitors, a worn alternator, loose accessory belts, inadequate wiring, an old/worn battery, etc...
I'm sure you get the idea. BTW, a few on this board with dimming problems have simply upgraded the (-) battery cable which connects the battery to the chassis and have solved/minimized their dimming problem. Well the wiring/alternator is prob the same as yours and everybody else on this board, 99 Duratech. I have 4gauge rockford cable, protected w/a 100amp blade-type fuse(at the battery) then to a dist. block/fuse(cyldr)holder ..then 1 8gauge wire to the 1farad cap then to the sub amp(which is running nominal at 4ohms) - the other 8gauge is NOT on the cap but straight to a 4 channel( I have tried useing the cap for both ) All wire is up to par and the ground is 2 8gauge meeting at the same place. But I don't really have a problem, I really just wanted to see if the guy w/the 1600 amp was doing the same or worse as a comparison. :p
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