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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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yeah you can get a cap for aesthetics(as many people do) or to smooth out the spikes of current drawn. it is fine for our car, but as far as this goes: Quote:
i do have a friend, however, who put a capacitor on a system with 600 watts on his chevy monte carlo. he had a problem with his light dimming when the system would hit hard. since he put it in, he has had no problems.
thats a common misunderstanding, all he is doing is making his lights contiunously dimmer so it isnt noticeable. if the ground and power are upgraded, and ur still having problems, you probly gotta weak alt. (i dont know the rating for that particular car). and a cap has to be charged, this works the alt. even harder, and eventually will die. most cars can handle a moderate stereo system, and our cars can even handle 1,000+ watts rms. but when its an obvoious alternator problem, please dont get a cap, it'll cost u more in the long run, i've talked to many people who have run their alternator into the ground
just a heads up for ur friend
blue 95 se MTX
alpine 9805
2 diamond 12" cm3's tuned to 38 hz
4 pioneer 3-ways(POS)
jbl bp1200.1
pimpin hoes, like the river flows..... constantly!
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Originally posted by KnuKonceptz: all you need is 2ft of 4awg and 2 ring terminals. There is a factory bolt under the airbox. That should take care of any problems
yahtzee! exactly what i was looking for.... thanks contour.org
1999 SE White
AVH-P6500DVD
Infinity Reference 6500CS
Pioneer 5x7s
Punch 360a2
Punch 500a2
Adire Tempest in a custom sealed 3.4cuft box
Modded Xbox
Still need Midnight Cloth Headrests... and if somebody has fold down rear seats....
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First, a cap for "looks" is just a silly statement. ALL caps are functional (unless you just bought the outer casing of one...lol) Everyone blames the ALT, well that is the biggest myth ever PERIOD. Why do your lights dim at idle because NO alternator makes big power at idle. You need to be at 2500-3000rpm before you see real power levels out of your ALT (amps). I had 6 amps in my SPL escort at max draw the total current draw was over 300A (this was measured and I blew a 200A fuse on a 20hz note with ease) That car had a stock ford alternator rated at 95A. We later added an adjustable voltage regulator. Even before that though, the lights never dimmed. Why because I had 4 extra batteries in the back to boot....LOL.
Too many people over estimate what truely is going on in thier car for the simple fact that they do not know any better. Before diagnosing anything make sure you use the proper tools.
So what have we learned? Your alt is perfectly fine if the lights dim. That is not how you "test" for a weak ALT. Now if you have a voltmeter, that would be the proper way of checking. Telling people they need an ALT because their headlights dim is just another "urban legend" that you are continuing to pass along for generations.....
Previous Owner of 00 SVT Contour #1077/2150 
95 Contour SE '01 3L
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How do you charge your cap to your battery w/out a charge card?
Steve
Steven. L. Benthal Jr.
98 Mystique: Meshed Grille & Pioneer Sound System
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Um, from what I know, if it's hookd up to the battery at all, then it is charged...
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yeah i know using one for looks is silly but ive seen a lotta pics of retarded people online who do it, i didnt say i supported it . but another "myth" is also that a capacitator is a solution for a weak alternator. like i said most contour owners wont need a HO alt., but many people on other forums, are using 2 1200.1 amplifiers off a car with a 95A alternator, and thinking their cap is going to be sufficient. you may have drawn 300a off 4 batteries, but i'm saying i've talked to a lot of people with dead alternators, because the blared bass music at 90% volume with only about 1000 rms amps. there are cars with small dimming problems that can be fixed with a cap, but all i'm saying is lots of people, especially people online are buying a cap(sometimes 2 or 3) or a yellow top and draining their alternator even more, when they really need to upgrade to a high output alternator. it is dangerous to electrical systems
blue 95 se MTX
alpine 9805
2 diamond 12" cm3's tuned to 38 hz
4 pioneer 3-ways(POS)
jbl bp1200.1
pimpin hoes, like the river flows..... constantly!
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Originally posted by Steve Benthal Jr.: How do you charge your cap to your battery w/out a charge card?
Steve
Steve, sounds like a punchline is missing...lol. Installing a cap is like adding a fuse inline. Only upon first installation you need to charge the cap slowly. A 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor is used inline on the + side of the cap.
The main reason this is used is that so you do not jolt your self or the top of the cap. Have you ever installed an amp and when you attach that one last cable you get a spark?
Well that spark is created because you just charges the small caps in your amp. The 1 Farad cap is several times bigger (depending on amp) and will create one hell of a spark, that is why the resistor is there.
Originally posted by contouranado: but another "myth" is also that a capacitator is a solution for a weak alternator. like i said most contour owners wont need a HO alt., but many people on other forums, are using 2 1200.1 amplifiers off a car with a 95A alternator, and thinking their cap is going to be sufficient.
That is correct a cap will be pointless, a cap and a second battery would be best or just a second battery would be better then a cap.
Originally posted by contouranado: you may have drawn 300a off 4 batteries, but i'm saying i've talked to a lot of people with dead alternators, because the blared bass music at 90% volume with only about 1000 rms amps.
So you think I never listened to my stereo at full volume? and What exactly is 1000 rms amps? My stereo would draw over 300amps of current (alt is a teeennyy-tiiinny 95A) basically it was over 4000 watts of real power just for the two subs (not a Pyramid rating, real power) and another 500 watts to each kick panel. I played plenty of bass, trust me 
Originally posted by contouranado: there are cars with small dimming problems that can be fixed with a cap, but all i'm saying is lots of people, especially people online are buying a cap(sometimes 2 or 3) or a yellow top and draining their alternator even more, when they really need to upgrade to a high output alternator.
Adding a properly charged second battery will not cause added stress to a charging system. If you use an isolator (which I do not recommend) you can drain the rear battery with the car off and upon starting the car after a period of playing, that will stress an ALT. Make sure both battteries are evenly charged, no damage will come to the ALT. I had over 155,000 miles on mine and it just died about 2 months ago. Today there is nothing left in the car and it failed because of worn brushes. Some tiny imports may need a bigger alt, but a second battery is certainly a cheaper and more practical route.
Think about it, a bass note hits, what do you think is more important - Having a second battery that will absorb the impact of the demand (slower then a cap, but for a muuuuuuch longer period of time) or getting a HO ALT that has to rely on a voltage regulator that has a delay built in to reduce voltage spikes. All ford ALT (and probably all of today cars) have a delay in the voltage regulator. IIRC it ranges from 4 sec to 11 sec depending on car and type of ALT. (I use to work a rebuilding facility )
Originally posted by contouranado: it is dangerous to electrical systems
So is misinformation
Previous Owner of 00 SVT Contour #1077/2150 
95 Contour SE '01 3L
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my bad, i meant 1000 wrms, not amps well here is the last post you will get from me, i dont like arguing on the internet because as everyone knows its like competing in the special olympics, even if you win you are still a retard i know you are probly an expert in car audio, but i still have to disagree with you with that said, read this(i've posted this b4, its from a professional installer for last decade, and he also has a degree in electrical systems or somethin like that, here: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kiki's take -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Capacitors Well let's see. First, I'll define what a capacitor is, how it works, and what it does. This is best done by the following webpage: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/capacitr.htmNow with that out of the way, I'll give my take on what a capacitor will or will not do for you. A capacitor WILL: -Stiffen voltage rails. If you experience very brief, momentary periods of high current demand that cause the electrical system to falter only at these rare, peak draw times, then a capacitor will supply the additional current needed (when bass hits maybe) to keep your voltage regulated, and prevent damage to the car or audio equipment. -Increase response times for musical accuracy by reducing delay caused by a lack of high-current in transient periods. In other words, your subs will respond more quickly, because they don't have to wait for the alternator to supply additional current at the moment of demand. Amplifiers have to provide a very dynamic and quick response many times. A capacitor can assist in this. A capacitor will NOT: -replace the need for a larger, high-output alternator and/or a deep-cycle battery. If your electrical system is inadequate, the ONLY way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator. This is the SOLE source of electrical current for your car when the motor is running. When the motor is turned off, the battery then becomes your source of electricity. When the battery is run down, and when the capacotir(s) is/are depleted, the alternator has to work even harder in order to supply current to the car, the audio system, and also to recharge the capacitor(s) (which deplete very quickly) as well as recharge the car's battery(ies). So yes, by adding a capacitor to try taking the place of a high-output alternator, you are actually causing more work for your alternator, and causing even more damage to that stock alternator. -make your system magically sound 10 times better. Many people believe that a capacitor adds NO real benefit to an audio system, and this is why you never see before and after demonstrations, or factory capacitor company vehicles at IASCA events. A capacitor does have it's uses, but it is not a magical fix for a lacking electrical system. if you want to argue this subject further, come to caraudiocentralforums.com and click the car audio discussion link. and you can come talk to some more professional installers, whove done lots of custom work and also talk to people who destroyed their alternator because people were telling them that a capacitator was a reliable substitute, and like idiots they believed it later
blue 95 se MTX
alpine 9805
2 diamond 12" cm3's tuned to 38 hz
4 pioneer 3-ways(POS)
jbl bp1200.1
pimpin hoes, like the river flows..... constantly!
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Originally posted by contouranado: my bad, i meant 1000 wrms, not amps
well here is the last post you will get from me, i dont like arguing on the internet because as everyone knows its like competing in the special olympics, even if you win you are still a retard
i know you are probly an expert in car audio, but i still have to disagree with you
with that said, read this(i've posted this b4, its from a professional installer for last decade, and he also has a degree in electrical systems or somethin like that, here:
I am not aruging with you about caps, I am trying to teach you about the charging system. I never used them and they are useless if you do not have the juice (from batteries) to back it up. You were simply implying that with out a HO alt everyone else is wasting their time with caps and batteries and that is not true.
Originally posted by contouranado:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kiki's take
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Capacitors
Well let's see. First, I'll define what a capacitor is, how it works, and what it does. This is best done by the following webpage:
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/capacitr.htm
Now with that out of the way, I'll give my take on what a capacitor will or will not do for you.
A capacitor WILL:
-Stiffen voltage rails. If you experience very brief, momentary periods of high current demand that cause the electrical system to falter only at these rare, peak draw times, then a capacitor will supply the additional current needed (when bass hits maybe) to keep your voltage regulated, and prevent damage to the car or audio equipment.
-Increase response times for musical accuracy by reducing delay caused by a lack of high-current in transient periods. In other words, your subs will respond more quickly, because they don't have to wait for the alternator to supply additional current at the moment of demand. .
This is incorrect, the Battery is the source of the current, the ALT has to then recharge the battery. By placing the cap in front of the amp it adds a cushion that can respond faster then the battery. The charging system senses the load and then responds with the ALT trying to put out more current (at idle though this wont be much) A battery will sustain a lot more then you guys seem to think.
Originally posted by contouranado: Amplifiers have to provide a very dynamic and quick response many times. A capacitor can assist in this.
Originally posted by contouranado:
A capacitor will NOT:
-replace the need for a larger, high-output alternator and/or a deep-cycle battery..
That is right on the money with the battery.
Originally posted by contouranado:
If your electrical system is inadequate, the ONLY way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator. This is the SOLE source of electrical current for your car when the motor is running.
When the motor is turned off, the battery then becomes your source of electricity...
So with the car running the battery doesnt have any power in it? The ALT recharges the battery. If you have two batteries and you have a 100A draw system with a 70A alt. You will not kill your ALT from the stereo. Now if you have every accessory on (HEAT/Rear Defroster, Lights then add in Neons and a full system) Yes it would be possible to kill something if you ran it that hard every second of the day.
Originally posted by contouranado:
When the battery is run down, and when the capacotir(s) is/are depleted, the alternator has to work even harder in order to supply current to the car, the audio system, and also to recharge the capacitor(s) (which deplete very quickly) as well as recharge the car's battery(ies)....
Thats the thing, if you sit with your car off for an hour and the stereo blasting, it will kill your battery and you will need soemthing else to charge your battery back up. If you have the engine running and are not playing sine waves through your system 24/7, regular music isnt not going to cause a problem for 90 percent of the cars with stereo's.
Originally posted by contouranado:
So yes, by adding a capacitor to try taking the place of a high-output alternator, you are actually causing more work for your alternator, and causing even more damage to that stock alternator.
-make your system magically sound 10 times better.
Many people believe that a capacitor adds NO real benefit to an audio system, and this is why you never see before and after demonstrations, or factory capacitor company vehicles at IASCA events.
A capacitor does have it's uses, but it is not a magical fix for a lacking electrical system
if you want to argue this subject further, come to caraudiocentralforums.com and click the car audio discussion link. and you can come talk to some more professional installers, whove done lots of custom work and also talk to people who destroyed their alternator because people were telling them that a capacitator was a reliable substitute, and like idiots they believed it
later
The original poster has a 300 watt amp. Do you think the cap and stock contour Alt can handle that? He most likely doesnt need the cap, but like someone said it isnt a bad investment. If he had 3000 watts rms (real power) he certainly would be looking for a bigger source of power.
I will drop by those forums later tonight.
Last edited by KnuKonceptz; 02/10/04 05:31 PM.
Previous Owner of 00 SVT Contour #1077/2150 
95 Contour SE '01 3L
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I agree with Knuconceptz totally.
Listen and take notes, he is using his time to actually explain to you what is going on in a system, not just telling you that it is without a why. Sounds like he has alot more of experience in this field than most of us.
Jason
00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 
01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l
98' Contour SE with some mods
96 Cavalier (beater)
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