Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
#861939 02/03/04 10:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
S
Newbie
OP Offline
Newbie
S
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
Hello All,
I own a '96 Contour SE with 52,000 miles. It's experiencing a massive build up of pressure in the cooling system. As soon as I start it the coolant level in the expansion tank rises about an inch, and the hoses get really hard. They feel as if they are going to expolde. I performed a compression test and five cylinders had 150psi. One cylinder had 125psi. No coolant was leaking out of that cylinder. Also no coolant was evident out of the exhaust. The car will overheat in about twenty minutes while in neutral. No heat also.
I removed the spark plug out of the weak cylinder and still had a pressure build-up. Besides a damaged head gasket, what could be the problem???
Thanks, Jay


'96 SE Auto
#861940 02/03/04 10:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
B
CEG'er
Offline
CEG'er
B
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
Maybe restriction in the system. Radiator or hose?



An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
#861941 02/03/04 10:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
T
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
I don't think its a head gasket...maybe water pump related.
Have you ever replaced the water pump? You could have a broken fin from your pump lodged somewhere.Do you have any antifreeze in your engine oil?? Can you smell antifreeze from the exhaust? Are you loosing any antifreeze? (Burning it)? Does the car smoke bad when you first start it??You could also have a bad air lock in the system...That will cause it to overheat. Run the car for awhile with the filler cap off and look for air bubbles when the thermostat opens.You may have to run it on a bit of a fast idle to get the thermostat to open.

#861942 02/03/04 11:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
T
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
If the engine seems to only run hot at idle or when traveling at very low speeds, like in stop-and-go traffic, I would suspect a possible cooling fan problem. Depending on the specific vehicle, the cooling fan is either blowing or pulling air across the radiator to help cool down the engine. This extra air flow is needed at low speeds and especially when the air conditioning system is on--adding an extra heat load to the engine.

If the engine runs hot only at freeway speeds, I would suspect an antifreeze restriction or low flow problem. Since air is being forced across the radiator due to the wind that is created at freeway speeds, the assistance from the cooling fan is not needed. A clogged radiator, a worn water pump, or a stuck thermostat are some of the items that could cause this type of overheating.

Now with that said, the one major ingredient that is needed to keep the engine cool is antifreeze, or engine coolant which is the same thing. If the radiator is low or empty of coolant then obviously the engine will overheat. The coolant removes the heat from the engine, and the air that blows across the radiator cools the coolant. So consider the liquid coolant a heat transfer agent that is constantly heating up (removing engine heat) then cooling back down in the radiator as fresh air blows across the radiator.

In either instance described above, the first thing you should do is check the level and condition of the coolant inside the actual radiator. Don't just rely on the level of coolant in the plastic jug usually located on the fender well; this container is just an overflow reservoir. Of course, the coolant inside the radiator should only be checked when the engine is cold to avoid scalding yourself.

If the coolant inside the radiator is low, then the system should be pressure tested to look for a potential leak. This is a simple step that many people overlook. They top off the radiator with coolant and drive the vehicle, which does not overheat for a day or soâ?¦.until the coolant leaks out again. Sometimes a coolant leak can be tricky to locate and may not necessarily leak while the engine is sitting still in your garage. The cooling system operates under pressure, and the leak may only be present when the engine is hot and the system is fully pressurized.

So how do you locate a coolant leak? You locate the leak using a coolant pressure tester. A cooling system pressure tester is like a small bicycle tire pump that attaches to the radiator neck and allows the mechanic to pump air into the cooling system, thus mimicking a fully-pressurized cooling system. This is a very simple and inexpensive test, but is almost always necessary to properly diagnose a coolant loss/overheating problem.

Ok, now on the head gasket dilemma. People seem to jump to the head gasket conclusion way too fast, and overlook a simpler problem that could be found using the pressure testerâ?¦and some common sense. The head gaskets are super strong gaskets form a seal between the top and bottom halves of the engine. Theses gaskets usually do not fail unless the engine has significantly overheated, and usually for a prolonged period of time (caused by driving an overheating vehicle for a few miles). If the engine has overheated to the point where the head gaskets have ruptured, the coolant will usually leak internally and not result in a visible external coolant leak.

Some symptoms of possible head gasket failure are:



White smoke from the tailpipe (caused by steam)
Engine running problem, like an engine misfire
Water in the engine oil or oil in the radiator
Coolant loss with no external signs
Overheating


If you are experiencing symptoms 1-3, then it is possible you have a head gasket problem, and further testing by the mechanic should be done. A compression test and a chemical test that checks for combustion gases inside the radiator should be performed next. If you do suspect a head gasket problem, do not continue to drive the vehicle as you will just compound the problem further.

If you are not experiencing any of the symptoms described above and your mechanic thinks you have a head gasket problem, you might want to get a second opinion from another mechanic. Replacing head gaskets can be an expensive job and is not a task that I would recommend a non-seasoned mechanic attempt. Proper checking beats guessing!


#861943 02/03/04 11:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
S
Newbie
OP Offline
Newbie
S
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
I'm not a mechanic but I own tools and a service manual.
About six months ago the car overheated. I replaced the water pump and thermostat. The car operated properly until now. The engine started to get hot again so I shut it off before it overheated. After it cooled down I tried to start
it. It would turn but would not run. I proceeded to change the plugs. It started, but it overheats. I repaced the water pump again with a NAPA pump. I also removed the thermostat but still have this overheating problem. I don't smell coolant in the exhaust.I also replaced the pressure cap. When I start the car now, it idles at 2200 rpm for a while then drops to about 600rpm and back up. All of a sudden it idles fine. But no heat and the temp slowly rising!


'96 SE Auto
#861944 02/04/04 12:23 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
R
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
R
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
Welcome to CEG!

New pump and thermostat. (belt OK, right?)
No heat.
Idle fluctuations.

Your coolant level is low. You may or may not have a blown head gasket. May just be a slow leak. Fill the coolant system, you may need to burp it, air in the block will cause no heat and overheating. You may have an obstruction. This is often a piece of the original pump. The expanding air will cause the coolant reservior to rise.

The idle fluxuation may be the intake gaskets starting to fail. Also check the vacuum hose from the UIM to the PCV valve.


"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
#861945 02/04/04 03:33 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 63
B
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
B
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 63
Another easy way to check for a blown head gasket is to pull the plugs. The moisture will leave a light rust effect on inside of the plugs. Also, you can crank it without the plugs installed and see if you get any water ejected out of the plug holes. I just went through it. It wasn't hard to fix on the Zetec, but I did have to send the head in and get it overhauled.


Britt Boyette Break Like the Wind Racing
#861946 02/04/04 10:45 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 71
A
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
A
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 71
I agree with everything said so far except that there is one question that begs the answer/ What blows the hoses up? Surely it must be something getting in to the system to do this. As far as I know that can be only form the head gasket leak.


airman1 Black '95 Mondeo V6Si
#861947 02/04/04 11:16 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
T
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
Originally posted by airman1:
I agree with everything said so far except that there is one question that begs the answer/ What blows the hoses up? Surely it must be something getting in to the system to do this. As far as I know that can be only form the head gasket leak.



He also said he removed the spark plug from the weak cylinder so that cylinder would have no compression to blow up the hoses. A reading of 150 and a low of 125 in one cylinder is not a real sign of a head gasket. He could do a pressure test on the rad...or find antifeeze in the engine oil, or a spark plug that is fowled. If he runs the car with the surge tank cap off and the car heats up as fast as he says...then any pressure in the hoses would be expelled out of the surge tank..."IF the Thermostat is open" I have one question...And I don't want to make out that you don't know what your doing...But you said you replaced the thermostat before correct??? Are you sure you have it in the correct way? and not backwards? In any case remove that rad cap and run the car again and report back if you still have that explosive pressure in the hoses.

#861948 02/04/04 11:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
S
Newbie
OP Offline
Newbie
S
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
I have removed the thermostat from the cooling system. So it can't be in backwards. No oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. No pressure in the hoses if I take the cap off on the expansion tank. I ordered a Stant pressure tester kit. I will perform this test next. I have a feeling
something is clogged. I just don't understand all the pressure build-up.


'96 SE Auto
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  horseydug_dup1, Ray_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5