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Originally posted by vudusvt:

Thanks again Ray and myfastse (whatever your name is ).




Eric,

And thank you for helping with the GB.



Just a Plain SE. AKA Big Country I maybe path914's B**** now, but wait until he needs his clutch done. We will see WHO is WHO's B**** then!
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Finally got mine Yay!


Justin Schmidt 2000 SVT Tour #1620 of 2150 Born 1/15/2000
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Me too


1999 Blk/Tan CSVT #654 - SOLD 2003 Suzuki SV650s
#856251 04/07/04 12:48 AM
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Ok so like everyone said these bolts are hard to find. I went to look and found no 6mmx60mm bolts/screws. I did however find some 6mmx50mm bolts. Will these work or will they be to short? I also picked up some 1/4"x2 1/2" bolts (they were closes to 6x60 I could find) and some self locking nuts. Will these work? I just dont want to tear into this to only find out neither will work and have to put everything back together. TIA



Justin Schmidt 2000 SVT Tour #1620 of 2150 Born 1/15/2000
#856252 04/07/04 03:55 AM
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Well I got no reply so I just said F it and took it apart....50mm bolts are way to long, 2 1/2" bolts, even worse. I ended up grinding down the 50mm bolts to about 35-40mm (home depot was closed) and just reused the old nuts. Works like a champ.

A must mod!


Justin Schmidt 2000 SVT Tour #1620 of 2150 Born 1/15/2000
#856253 04/07/04 04:25 AM
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Originally posted by thejms:
....50mm bolts are way to long, 2 1/2" bolts, even worse. I ended up grinding down the 50mm bolts to about 35-40mm (home depot was closed) and just reused the old nuts. Works like a champ.

A must mod!




Just to clarify, I believe that the small plate people need the 6x60mm bolts. Your experience might only apply to the large platers.

By all means, correct me if I'm wrong.


-Chuck Dienzo Black 98.5 E1 SVT #5022 of 6535 Born on March 16, 1998 "If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
#856254 04/07/04 05:03 AM
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in the how-to with pictures for the larger plate it shows Scott reusing the originaly studs, I tried but they were not long enough. Who knows.....I got it to work now so I am happy


Justin Schmidt 2000 SVT Tour #1620 of 2150 Born 1/15/2000
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OK, it's kind of ridiculous, but I was aspleep , and I got up for some water. Then I thought "hey- I think I'll install my shifter..." So I did.

Followed Kingpin's (thanks for that, BTW) small-plate how-to and everything went smoothly. The oringinal bolts were indeed long enough for me to use the plastic piece on the underside of the tower- EXCEPT for the lower right bolt- the one that holds the reverse lockout tab. For this, I found a (5x55mm IIRC) bolt that would (barely) pass straight through the embedded nut in the plastic piece. I then used a matching 5mm nut to tighten it down. The whole process took about 35-40 minutes- IF you don't count the 20 min that I spent looking for that one bolt! Honestly, the hardest part was hammering in that damned pin!

Went for a quick test drive, and I must say that it does feel much more "crisp"- especially the 2 & 4 shifts- those 2 DO seem a LITTLE shorter than the 1 & 3; the 5 feels ALMOST as short as the 2/4. I do seem to hit the tower on the bottom ones too, though. I don't think it's the plastic piece though. On my test drive, I went without the boot in place, and I could see the shifter *tapping* the tower on the 2/4 shifts.

I was kinda leery at first, but I also removed the centering spring. Guys, just do it, because it kinda feels like it's stilll there anyway. You'll save yourself some teeny-tiny, cramped-space hacksaw/dremel work, too.

Rowing through the gearbox before the test drive, I thought I was having 99SVT's same problem, but it turned out that I hadn't snapped the bottom linkage on all the way- I gently took some pliers to squeeeeze it together and *CLICK* nice crisp shifts.

Anyone else break the mounts to the e-brake boot when you took out the center console? ...oh well, another thing to waste some time on I suppose. How DO you remove the e-brake handle, BTW?

Sorry so long-winded,
Happy shifting.


-Chuck Dienzo Black 98.5 E1 SVT #5022 of 6535 Born on March 16, 1998 "If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
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yeah i broke my bot for my ebrake about the 4th time i took mine out on the first group buy,and its still dangling!


(2)1994 mustang GTs 2001 gt convertible loaded.www.haywoodspeed.com
#856257 04/07/04 04:06 PM
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Originally posted by thejms:
in the how-to with pictures for the larger plate it shows Scott reusing the originaly studs, I tried but they were not long enough. Who knows.....I got it to work now so I am happy




On 2000 models with the large plate you do not need new bolts or any additional bolts for the install...and the original studs work fine. You will however need somebody to push down on the whole assembly while you put the nuts on from under the car when mounting the plate. That is the hardest part of the 2000 install aside from the little round plastic clip on the side of the shifter...you will probably break a few of the fingers of but it will still work. Also on the 2000 install if you want to keep the centering spring "IT WORKS PERFECT" you do "NOT" have to modify anything like you do on the '98-'99 installs to get it to work!

Scott


Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew
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