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Well, I dropped my oil pan today and after 78K miles I found an incredible amount of crud inside the block. I suspect it is all up under the valve covers too. The oil pick up tube was about 80 percent clogged which explains my intermittent oil light. The engine still seems to run very smooth though. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas about some kind of chemical or additive that would clean that stuff off. I was thinking Berrymans B-12. I also read on here somewhere that synthetic oil will clean the inside of the engine. Is there any truth to this as I was considering swithing over. Thanks for your help.


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have you been running pennzoil? It leaves a waxy sludge in the engine...Quaker state (I heard does something similar)


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B-12 pour in has instructions on the can for use in the engine. Follow them carefully & do it more than once if your engine is that bad. I put a can into mine when I did my UIM cleaning a few months ago. Now when I open the oil cap I see gleaming, well oiled parts in there.

How long have you owned your 'Tour? Try to find a free carfax & see if it was a rental fleet vehicle. Mine was, but it seems to have been well cared for.

If you've gotta do it more than once, I would suggest you put in some Valvoline oil and run the B-12 through & change the oil in two week intervals until you're happy with the condition of the engine. Valvoline runs a little cleaner than the typical engine oil, & when you're done you can switch over to Mobile 1.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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106K miles, using Mobil 1:


'Nuff said.

-Lance


Lance Kinley CEG Webmaster 95 SE, "Cassandra" 10 years!
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ATX -
Originally posted by bnoon:
Get enough HP/TQ and some traction and you can race a ricer one handed while sipping a slirpy. Nothing wrong with that.


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Originally posted by Lance Kinley:
106K miles, using Mobil 1:
http://www.contour.org/carprofile/files/2/img/IMG_3190.JPG

'Nuff said.

-Lance




Looks like my SHO at 117k with Pennzoil.


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Originally posted by stilov:
have you been running pennzoil? It leaves a waxy sludge in the engine...Quaker state (I heard does something similar)




That hasn't been true for a long time, if indeed it was ever true. Pennzoil and Quaker State are hydrocracked oils, using Chevron's hydocracking process, as of several years ago. These are Group II basestocks--most of the 80cents/quart oils are still Group I.

To answer the original poster's question, I would suggest changing your oil with Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40. This is available at most Wal-Marts in gallon jugs. This oil is designed for both gasoline and diesel engines, and as such, has more detergents than gasoline-only engine oils, so it will clean out the deposits in your engine, and do it in a gradual and safe manner that won't result in plugging an oil passage.

Diesel engines put much more carbon and soot into the oil than gasoline engines, so that is why diesel engine oil has better detergents than gasoline oils.

I have used Shell Rotella oil to get rid of a lifter tick in my Mustang 5.0. In the case of the Contour, the 5W-40 weight won't hurt anything as I'm pretty sure that's what is specified in Europe.

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You might want to try and find a shop that uses a Bilstein engine flush machine.

Although I don't believe that it is needed as a scheduled maintenance item, it really does work and work well. Your engine is a good candidate for it. It is a little pricy though. Expect to pay anywhere from $75.00 to $150.00 including fresh oil and oil filter when completed.


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Thanks for all your input guys! I went ahead and used the Berrymans B12 spray inside the crankcase and it worked very well. After I re-assembled it all, I put in some Valvoline Max life and a bottle of STP. The Max life is supposed to have extra detergents in it to clean old engines. With the unclogged oil pick up tube, you can really see the oil flowing under the valve covers now and covering all parts. Im gonna go ahead and run it like this a while and see if it breaks it up slowly (in order to not clog the screen again) and see how it looks in about 1000 miles.


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Originally posted by wakeslayer:
Thanks for all your input guys! I went ahead and used the Berrymans B12 spray inside the crankcase and it worked very well.




The spray did some good for the parts you can see, but the internals are likely still a bit constricted. Now that you know what Berrymans can do, at your next oil change, use the pour in bottle & follow the instructions. Talk about good oil flow compared to what you have...

Just to verify, check the color of your oil just before the B-12 treatment & oil change. After the treatment, check the color of the oil as its draining. You'll be stunned, I'm sure.



Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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