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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by akrump47:
Demon ... what did you use to paint your coolant tank. It looks WAAAAY better that way!
Also - how do you check the level of coolant when it's painted like that?
Silver metallic bumper paint. I used Duplicolor though Plasticoat is a much better shade of silver IMO, but I could not find it again. 
It is made to adhear to plastic and has flex additive in it.
You can check the level 2 ways. (not that I have ever lost a drop of coolant in 4+ years but)
Simply remove the cap. 
Take a straight edge and remove the paint from the max level bar. Yes the coolant is easily visible (or not) this way.
Besides you want to run it slightly over "full" anyway to keep the hyperactive sensor from saying the level is low.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by bnoon:
1. Do you have IAT readings that you're going by, or is this more theory? EDIT: Duh, nevermind. At what speed and time are your IAT temps returning to near ambient is what I meant to ask...
2. because most people don't want to pay for the best way. People want 100 horsepower for $10. This is a step closer in that direction compared to the old South County CAI's...
1. In Normal driving the temp never goes more than about 20-30 degrees above ambient while stopped. (ambient above 80) It drops back to ambient in a matter of seconds once moving.
In a "worst case" scenario...
I waited in the staging lanes for 30 minutes and IAT was at 150+ degrees. Ambient was 85.
By 330' it was ambient +20, by half track it was ambient, by the end of the track it showed less then ambient. Yes it was (and always is  ) very humid so evaporation of the air moisture from the high velocity air is why.
Also that was with my old "el-cheapo" garbage can heatshield. (basically a hot air "break")
Now I have one made from ~3/16" plexiglass and it seals completely to the inner fender. 
2. I definitely agree. I was mainly pointing out that most "CAIs" are really "HAIs" without a good heatshield and adequate cool air source.
Though I do subscribe to having a straight shot into the TB from the MAF. That's why I like my setup better. 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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OP
Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
That's why I like my setup better.
Well... Neener neener! 
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
You both need to get blown! That will solve all the whining about air temp and straight shots and whatnot!
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,475
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,475 |
Hmmm. I used Duplicolor "aluminum" color hi-temp spray on my UIM/TB and MAF and it looks cool. I wonder if they have the same color available for plastic applications.  I'd like all my painted accents to be the same color and the coolant tank is the only real "eyesore" under the hood imo (other than surfcace rust and such on the engine mounts and some of the bolts and parts) 
Please do show us your highly-touted Heat shield also  I'm running without a heatshield now and need some ideas as to how to build a good one come warmer weather.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,714
Scourge of the Master Debaters
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Scourge of the Master Debaters
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,714 |
Originally posted by akrump47:
Please do show us your highly-touted Heat shield also I'm running without a heatshield now and need some ideas as to how to build a good one come warmer weather.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
'98 E0 SVT Silver Frost
Pictures
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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OP
Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Originally posted by warmonger:
That will solve all the whining about air temp...
Oh really? How well does your water to air after cooler work again???
I don't have to get blown. I have a small block Chevy that can make over 400 horse for under 2 grand. Take that!
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by warmonger:
That will solve all the whining about air temp...
I don't have to get blown. I have a small block Chevy that can make over 400 horse for under 2 grand. Take that!
Sure like to compare his dyno graph against yours though...
Less than 60% the displacement of your 305. (unless it's a 350 now?)
About 300-400lbs lighter.
Manual transmission. (don't remember if yours is a manual)
No traction. (err... )
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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OP
Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Sure like to compare his dyno graph against yours though...
Less than 60% the displacement of your 305. (unless it's a 350 now?)
About 300-400lbs lighter.
Manual transmission. (don't remember if yours is a manual)
No traction. (err... )
Yeah, my "little" 305 will be making quite a bit more HP than normal. A little LT1 retrofit (cut distributor hole, remove EGR, add a distributor spacer, change the intake mounting holes) and some cam to match and the little 305 may make close to 400 horse. I just don't want to be overly optimistic at this point since I'm still working on a budget. Heads will be the 416 casting 58cc 305 H.O. version with 1.94"/1.60" valves and be full P&P. A stall jump to around 2600-2800 and some 3:45 gears are also in the mix.
Traction aids are also in the works, ala aluminum adjustable trailing arms and adjustable panhard bar (recenters the rear end after lowering). Subframe connectors and linear rate lowering springs controlled by KYB adjustables on all four are also in the garage rafters awaiting spring time installation.
If you want to see my dyno right now, that's to bad, I don't have one. I copied a guys mods from thirdgen.org and he put out some good numbers... Only 220WHP, but over 320WTQ at 2500 RPM!!! If it weren't for the 2:77 Borg Warner 9 bolt rear end (not very common rear end size), I'd be running mid to high 13's right now.
After I get done, I'll have less than 4 grand in it and run mid to low 13's, get 20-22 MPG, and get this, NO MULLET!!!
Then there's the $250 400 cu in engine in a near by town that could make over 500HP/TQ very easily...
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4 |
"After I get done, I'll have less than 4 grand in it and run mid to low 13's, get 20-22 MPG, and get this, NO MULLET!!!" I find it hard to belive there is NO Mullet involved here!! 
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