|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788 |
Well, the computer is what causes the EGR valve to open, not the DPFE.
In any event, get rid of the 327 first.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 888
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 888 |
why not just take the EGR valve off and then clean it out with carb. cleaner and put a vacuum on it to make sure the vacuum section controls the valve.... then you can blow into one end to see if the valve really closes or stays open when you want it to... and there are test you can do on a DPFE or any sensor for that matter with a plain old multimeter/volt ohm meter.. i downloaded a operating manual from the web site for Sunpro by actron III digital multimeter, but the instructions can be used with just about any multimeter.... go to www.actron.com and look up manual on the left side of the screen for actron products, multimeter... its about 36 pages long i PDF format.. you need acrobat reader to view it.. hope this helps... i need to check out the DPFE on my 93 taurus, getting the bad codes for that also... but it should work on any dpfe sensor...
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Not true. I operated mine with just my personal facial vac - no problem.
You have the basic proceedure right. If you apply vac, the engine will run rough(er) & possibly stall. That is IF you have an EGR that is operating properly. You should also be able to crimp the hose while the vac is applied & hold the rough(er) idle. This will tell you if the EGR has a leak in the diaphram.
If you EGR passes these tests, then you replace the DPFE. The original is an aluminum box about the size of a Zippo lighter on the block, just below the EGR valve. The newer ones will have a black plastic housing. Each will have an electrical connector, two hoses, and two bolts holding it on the block. A simple repair made tricky because of tight access.
It is my theory that the new DPFE housings are made from recycled water pump impellers.
PLEASE NOTE:
When you replace the DPFE, you will want to perform a TB cleaning. A simple & cheap proceedure - Your wrenches, one small screwdriver, $4 gasket, $3 for TB cleaner (do not use carb cleaner). You MUST be CERTAIN to clean the EGR channels behind the TB gasket (probably stuck to the Upper Intake Manifold).
These clogged channels may be part of what caused the DPFE to fail.
IN FACT, YOU MAY WISH TO CLEAN THE TB PROPERLY FIRST. This may restore EGR flow & raise the DPFE voltage & rid you of your problem - without replacing anything. 
Last edited by TourDeForce; 01/10/04 03:25 AM.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,228
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,228 |
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Not true. I operated mine with just my personal facial vac - no problem.
Hehe, then you may have another career opportunty in personal services..
J/K 
I prefer using a hand operated pump with gauge. I can control the vacuum and check for leaking diaphragms too.
My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic.
NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black
BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport
Duratec ATX Spruce Green
PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Hehe, then you may have another career opportunty in personal services.. Ouch!!! You'll pay for that!...Um, I mean I'm gonna get your @ss!!...No, wait...I'm gonna beat you!!...No, no good...Crap, forget it.  I grew up a poor farm boy in Northern Maine. Vac pumps were unheard of. Besides, I couldn't justify buying a gauge if I could just buy a length of vac hose for $1 and also have spare tubing whenever I might need it. Ain't I the industrious Boy Scout.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,228
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,228 |
I didn't have one till fairly recently. I have the little Mighty-Vac (Metal One) with the brake bleeding accessories. My wife could never get the hang of pump, hold, release (Not what your thinking, I am talking about brake bleeding). If I get frustrated enough explaining the problem, she says to buy the tool that makes it easier and then I won't need to yell so much!  It's easirt to bleed brakes with the vac pump then using "facial vacuum" to do it. BTW, I think you coined a new term. I have never heard it called Facial Vacuum before. Funk and Wagnalls may be calling you this minute...
My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic.
NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black
BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport
Duratec ATX Spruce Green
PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
I'd never put a vacuum on my brake system. I use a simple one way check valve thingy from the auto parts store. One man brake bleeding kit.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 888
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 888 |
My wife could never get the hang of pump, hold, release (Not what your thinking, I am talking about brake bleeding). If I get frustrated enough explaining the problem, she says to buy the tool that makes it easier and then I won't need to yell so much! yes, thats why i bought the mighty vac also at autozone for about $25, the plastic one, but it works good... i never could relay how to pump the brakes when under the car and just about gave up..until the mighty vac.. you might also be insterested in the : Speed bleeders: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 13 |
I seem to be having the same problem on my 95 mystque V6.Where is the d.p.f.e. located? All I can see is a senser located on the rear of the u.i.m. two vac. lines,one from the e.g.r. and elec. conection,this senser is a round barrel like object.Does the d.p.f.e. go buy any other name because I have not found a listing for it in any parts books
thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788 |
Originally posted by mkrog:
I seem to be having the same problem on my 95 mystque V6.Where is the d.p.f.e. located? All I can see is a senser located on the rear of the u.i.m. two vac. lines,one from the e.g.r. and elec. conection,this senser is a round barrel like object.Does the d.p.f.e. go buy any other name because I have not found a listing for it in any parts books
thanks
The round, barrel shaped piece you described is the EVR solenoid.
The DPFE sensor is below that on the firewall side, buried way the heck under everything else. Look down from the IAC valve.
The DPFE often goes by names that include the following keywords: EGR, Pressure, Sensor . For example, AutoZone's site calls it the "EGR Valve Pressure Sensor" - $53.99 for a Wells SU282 for a 98 2.5
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
|
|
|
|
|
