Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio audiophiles! share your knowledge

I think you have the concept right. Basically, the picture was what you would see if looking from the rear of the vehicle into the trunk. The top of the "triangle" would be open and would mount below the factory 6.5" hole. I'll give you some potential ways to mount it in my next post.

To dampen any vibrations that might be caused, there are couple of things you can do. First, get a sheet or 2 of this sound deadening material from McMaster. Surprisingly enough running some wood firring strips can stop rattling pretty well. Attach with liquid nails type adhesive and run them in a "ribbed" pattern. Now cover everything with the dynamat.

The dynamat material will not stop vibrations will stop high freq noise and some rattles. The ribbing will help stop vibration.

In the configuration above, you have the advantage of not have the cone moving perpendicular to the surface of the deck, which should keep it more stable as well, as the vertical forces will be miniscule.

I think I'm beginning to understand. The position of the speakers would essentially funnel the sound through the factory opening in the deck?
I guess my biggest concern would be packaging, i.e. building a frame suitable for holding these speakers and mounting that frame and weight to the rear deck. I do like the dual sub concept, it is obviously more advantageous than a mono setup.

Would the sound dampening sheets you cited about be suitable for doing the doors also?

I think you got the concept down. brb, with some more drawings.

I think you would end up with a total weight of ~15-20 pounds depending on the driver you select. The scanspeak would get to be too much money with 2, the JL would be lighter than the daytons with similar performance. Out of the options, the JL might be the best option that I have found so far when you figure in weight, cost, application. (HEY look, I recommended a brand name sub!!) Unless of course, you decide the scanspeaks would not be two expensive at 320 per pair, in which case, i have to wholeheartedly endorse them)


Sorry for the piss poor drawings, but i was stuck with powerpoint and no time....

Would 50 watts be enough to drive them? With the US Acoustics amp, I'd drive the Crystals off the high pass xover and the subs off the low pass and each speaker would get 50 watts, right?

Also where can I find the JL 8IB4's? I've looked, onlinecarstereo, carstereotime, soundcity (call), sounddomain, partsexpress. Who am I missing?

Man, this is sounding really cool; I'm salivating on the keyboard!!!

I don't think JL allows online advertising. You may just have to call one of the places and ask them if they carry them. The JLs are 8 ohm, so you would wire them in parallel and bridge channels 5/6 on the amp. This should give you about 75 watts to each sub. If you go with the daytons, wire them in stereo (don't bridge the amp) and you'll get 50 watts to each sub.

oh...forgot to say that 50-75 watts to each is more than enough.

Where's the best place to mount the amp? I was thinking under the passenger's seat since the harness for the door speakers is under the glovebox, and the radio is there, etc... but some people mount to the rear of the back seat? What kind of fastener do they use?

EDIT: I did find some JL's for $80 a piece at wholesaleaudio.com .

Ordered the Crystal 5x7's yesterday and from the looks of the other post I got in just in the nick of time. Haven't heard confirmation from them yet though...

Is it necessary (i.e. worthwhile) to dynamat the doors when I'm installing these things?

Do you have the woodworking tools to make the mounting bracket?

I would definitely say that it is worthwhile to dynamat. It really can make a big difference.

I would mount the amp in the trunk personally. I'm not sure it'll fit under the seat.