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Uhh, the first time I did have the manual. I returned the manual because I was so pissed off that I could not get the struts out after following word for word, that I wanted my money back. Simply stated, the A arms just will not drop low enough to remove the struts. Even when you put on spring compressors. I'll say it one more time. The A arms will not drop low enough to remove the struts. You really have two options. One, push the struts up or two, lower the subframe. And what lower ball joint are talking about? The steering ball joint? Cause if you look at the pic it's already out. The early SVT's had different A arm bushings. Originally posted by Andy W.:
Originally posted by Shaun G:
Here is how I got mine out. I've done the spring/strut swap twice on a contour. The first time is took 11 hours because I/we could not get the struts out of the arm. The same problem you are having. The second time it took 3 hours using this trick below..hee hee
I supported the A-arm and the jack pushed the strut up just high enough to let it pop out.
To get them back in I/we dropped the subframe. I should have done that in the first place...live and learn.
Sorry but that is simply retarded! If you pop out the lower ball joint and slide the caliper mount backwards the struts pop right out! Get a manual!
-Andy
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I compress my springs as far as I can. Then I pound the strut free from the knuckle with a piece of BRASS. it usually makes it about right to the very bottom of the strut. Then I just tap the knuckle to the right or left and the strut will come right out of the knuckle. Installation is much easier with the lowering springs on. I'll be replacing my H&R's with GC's soon I should take pics 
06 GMC Sierra 2500HD Dmax/ally
06 Pontiac G6 GT
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FOR SALE 06 KX65 with riding gear $2700 obo
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I have no life
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I have no life
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Originally posted by Shaun G:
Simply stated, the A arms just will not drop low enough to remove the struts. Even when you put on spring compressors. I'll say it one more time. The A arms will not drop low enough to remove the struts. You really have two options. One, push the struts up or two, lower the subframe.
Then please tell me and countless others how we managed to remove the struts without lowering the subframe or do what you did? PRY THE A-arm DOWN,,, it's that easy, just like the how-to on this site says to do. Though you gotta do some serious prying,, it's a helluva lot easier than dropping the subframe or trying to get a jack in there,, think about it, it's basically does the same thing. Now strut removal on a 98+ is most likely easier than on a pre98,, but still no need to put a jack in there or lower the subframe. Just put a pry bar to it (long one) and have someone strong pry the arm down, doesn't take long at all.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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I tried that and it did not work..sorry... maybe we don't have the same A-arm bushings.
Next undo the lower pinch bolt from the lower ball joint (found under the knuckle). You will need a METRIC Torx-Bolt set to hold the pinch bolt form turning. Remove the bolt totally and then use a LARGE screwdriver or pry bar to separate the ball joint stud from the underside of the knuckle (place the screwdriver in the gap between the A-arm ad the bottom of the knuckle, but DON'T damage the ball joint boot). If it doesn't come out all the way, stand up, place you foot on the lower A-arm and step down hard , swinging away the strut and knuckle as it clears the ball joint.
lol...anyways.. I stood on the damn arm and it would not come down.
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So you tried stepping or prying? We tried stepping but just not enough force can be applied that way... a very long pry bar, correctly used, does fine.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Well, I don't have a very long pry bar. So,to each his own and the issue I'm having is not how to do it but that the "manual" never says your need a "very long pry bar" to push the arm down.
Last edited by Shaun G; 02/06/04 05:23 AM.
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b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
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Ok, here we go! Push the a-arm like that will only bend it or the frame element that it hits!
The ball joint I am talkin about it below the brake assembly right at the a-arm. It has a 7/8 nuts and retaining pin in it! If you had a manual you would know what it was! The steering ball joint is actually the tie rod end and knuckle!
You have to use a special tuning fork wedge and a BFH to break the ball joint loose. It will pop loose and be very easy to move. You then place a pry bar between the ball joint and strut assemble and compressing the spring enough to completely remove the ball joint.
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Please quote where is say's in "the manual" to use your pry bar and I'll STFU..k?
-Andy
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Originally posted by Shaun G:
Please quote where is say's in "the manual" to use your pry bar and I'll STFU..k?
-Andy
You may be right, but it sure as heck says it in every post on removing struts... And Andy, I don't remember removing the ball joint to be that hard, just used the ball joint tool, no hammer and it came out easy.... and then the long pry bar came along. 
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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The problem was not getting things apart, but rather getting them put back together. The only way I could get things back in place was to use a long pry bar to force the control arm down. I tried spring compressors, bottle jacks, and floor jacks, but the long pry bar was the only thing that worked.
Later on in life, I replaced the ball joints, and installed joints that bolt in place, rather than being riveted in. With the new ball joints, I can loosen the bolts enough to drop the ball joint half an inch or so, which makes the re-install much easier.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
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