Here is the text from the link. This is not my info, but I followed it, and it worked pretty well. As I mentioned before, you may be better off contacting WA2FAST.
Good luck, especially in these temps! Hope you've got a heated garage!!!
- Zack
------------
Welp, just thought I'd pass along some info to anyone owning a 1995-7
Contour with rear discs, and who is experiencing a sticking parking
brake.
TSB 96-25-6 more or less became TSB 97-5-2 which in turn was superceded by TSB 98-5A-17 ("Parking Brake - Parking Brake may stick and/or bind - May not release - Vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes").
If one wants to order the parts to perform the TSB oneself, the appropriate item to order is "Kit F6RZ-2A635-AA". Said kit contains:
Part # Description Quantity
2A635 Cable,Park Brake 2
22745 Spring, Caliper Lever Return RH 1
2L642 Spring, Caliper Lever Return LH 1
I.S. 7203 Instruction Sheet (ed. note: really helpful ... ha ha) 1
Pricing info and notes:
Dealer A (Bob Turner Ford Country, ABQ) TSB 97-5-2 (?) $US80 or so
Dealer B (Rich Ford, ABQ) "my boss says we won't sell you the parts to do the TSB yourself" $US n/a
Dealer C (Don Chalmers Ford, Rio Rancho) $US32.84
Cautionary tale: if you do not have a lift or pit available, re-consider whether you want to attempt the TSB yourself, as you will spend lots of time on your back on the cold, cold driveway, in cramped quarters, contorting your limbs in a wacky fashion whilst trying to wrestle with interestingly-designed and humorously-placed fasteners, etc.
The Method: [not perfected]
Chock wheels - release parking brake - loosen lug nuts on rear wheels
Jack up rear end of car, secure with blocks/jack stands/something stable
Remove rear wheels
Remove back three exhaust system hangers to lower exhaust out of way; support exhaust with blocks; hangers are 1) just in front of muffler 2) about even with rear wheels 3) ahead of rear wheels
Remove back portions of heat shield (have fun with those neato fasteners, boys, about 8 or so of them); aft heat shield on my car was in two pieces riveted together forming a roughly L-shaped affair)
Eyeball the routing of the existing parking brake cable, noting where it is secured, how it is linked and kinked and such
Remove parking brake cable:
a) release cable end at rear from caliper arched lever
b) slide a 13mm box end wrench over the end of the cable, and work the spring tabs inward to release the connection on guide arm which holds the cable in place on the caliper
c) remove tie fastener which holds cable to stabilizer bar
d) remove cable AND white grommet from metal hanger
e) lift tab on white plastic hanger where cable turns inward towards central tunnel and slide cable up and out
f) slide forward end of cable out of yoke (which attaches secondary cables in rear to front primary cable which is attached to lever in console)
Installation of new cables ... as they say, just reverse the procedure, with one exception: before attaching aft end of cables to caliper arched lever, slide appropriate spring over caliper arched lever, making sure to hook the lever end forward of the lever (you could use a blunt-ended metal rod to push the spring down and then forward, with help from Mr. Fingers).
Once totally re-assembled, test to make sure it all works right!
Another note: if, for any reason, you decide to detach the parking brake lever in the console before this operation (you fool), re-attach the parking brake lever before attempting to attach the aft (rear) end of the cable.
If you accept this mission, good luck. I will disavow any knowledge of said mission, and in the event of pure and total disaster, you can email me at
lloydparker@worthless.opinions.org ... ho ho ha ha hee hee
HTH
Rick Koehler, from the Land of antmen .
'96 SE/MTX, Midnight Red - 'Siva'
"Cold, rainy, windy days in November are good days to play Mr. Fixit" -
Buddha
