Originally posted by warmonger:
Someone posted on here that if some kind of oils or fluid gets on the kevlar then it will burn out fast.





I did actually. It's true, and that is exactly why I would never get Kevlar for a clutch lining. When any kind of oil gets on the kevlar, you can kiss it goodbye. Mainly because once you try to use it after it has had a close encounter of the oilly kind.....it'll bake to a nice, smooth, non-abraisive material that is perfect for the garbage.

Since we have hydraulic slave cylinders....that's the #1 reason never to get kevlar for our cars. Kevlar is only good when you change your clutch a ton, but not for performance applications. If you look at WHO uses kevlar for clutch lining the very most and why, you'll see that tractors and semi trucks do. Why? Because they go through a ton of clutches, and kevlar doesn't bite hard enough to eat at the flywheels and pressure plates. +90% of the time you can just change discs out with a new one and leave the existing flywheel and pressure plate alone, which cuts down on down time a grip!
My main idea about kevlar as a clutch lining- It doesn't bite as hard as organic material (which is used in stock clutches, including the OEM SVT clutch ) and it doesn't last longer than organic material AND it's ruined with ANY oil contact.......so why...OH WHY...would you "upgrade"?? The stage I has steel backed organic lining, which is a great clutch lining and SPANKS kevlar hands down, it just has a lower cost. Leave kevlar for keeping bullets out of our boys and girls in Iraq

I bet it's the kevlar's fault...blame it!

2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone