Originally posted by Stevedrivr:
I originaly wanted to do a 3L conversion, but again its a case of bucks! I figure while I have the old engine out, I'll totally rebuild it. I'd like to P&P the heads, use the new ARP head and main studs, find some forged pistons and connecting rods and machine the crank to accept better bearings! (these bearing problems seem to be a recurring problem with the Duratecs!) Maybe I'll see about a stroker crank while I'm at it! Basicly I want to rebuid it better than new and make the sucker BULLIT PROOF ! These are sweet engines, (and I'm a Chevy fan!), but they seem a little fragile. By doing the rebuild a little at a time as I can afford it, I can build something that will survive nitrous or some form of turbo or supercharger. Even if I never use any power adder, I'll have an engine that will survive no matter what.
Steve


You are broke, but want to do an engine swap. Bad start.

You are broke but want a stroker crank (I.E. several thousand dollars alone to have ONE billet crank custom ground)

You are broke but want all forged internals.

You are broke but want to machine the engine to accept different bearings ( ) even though there are Clevite's available for it already. On top of that it is only the OEM rod bearings that are suspect and that's an easy fix all by itself.

You still don't have any clue as to what specs you want to build the engine too (turbo, S/C, N/A, etc) but think you should start anyway.



You are basically pipe dreaming out loud here and doing it without much if any understanding of what you want to build or will have to build to meet your demands.
Then on top of that the little bits of information you may have gained already seem to be flawed or more likely just hits of worst case scenario spouted as 100% fact.



My advice to you is to do A LOT of saving, A LOT of studying, A LOT of learning, and not do it out loud in this particular way.

2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.