Originally posted by Stevedrivr:
Quote:

We pulled with the trani because we diecided to redo the clutch while we had it out.



Since the clutch is attached to the engine, why did you have to pull the trans as well? I would think that by pushing in the clutch and seperating the two you could just pull the engine and leave the tranny in?

Quote:

Good luck! Glad to see people still willing to put money in the old sirls of the club!



Well, just can't afford a new car right now and even though this car is a major PIA to work on , I still love the way it drives! As a side note, I would really like to met the packaging engineer(s) responsible for the layout of the V6 cars! It would not have to be in a dark alley either! I'd cap em' in Times Square at high noon on a bright sunny day!!

I originaly wanted to do a 3L conversion, but again its a case of bucks! I figure while I have the old engine out, I'll totally rebuild it. I'd like to P&P the heads, use the new ARP head and main studs, find some forged pistons and connecting rods and machine the crank to accept better bearings! (these bearing problems seem to be a recurring problem with the Duratecs!) Maybe I'll see about a stroker crank while I'm at it! Basicly I want to rebuid it better than new and make the sucker BULLIT PROOF ! These are sweet engines, (and I'm a Chevy fan!), but they seem a little fragile. By doing the rebuild a little at a time as I can afford it, I can build something that will survive nitrous or some form of turbo or supercharger. Even if I never use any power adder, I'll have an engine that will survive no matter what.

Happy New Year to all!
Steve



what your doing is soing to cost ALOT more than a 3L

if your investing that kind of money, spend a little extra for a 3L block

Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete