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Joined: Apr 2002
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with the motor off its not gonna grind as you dont have anything turning... it sounds like the clutch needs to be bled as its not going all the way in to relieve the pressure of the clutch..... matter of fact when you are driving you could probably change gears in most cases without the clutch... like letting off the gas and moving it out of one gear and then playing around with it and sliding it into another gear depending on the RPM's of the engine and the speed of the car... i had a friend who broke the cable on his Mustang cobra and put it into first gear started up the car and then had to drive and shift without the clutch and then got on the interstate and drove about 80 miles home where he cold put it on his rack and change out the parts....

Joined: Nov 2003
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Well, I bought the car shortly before I took it to the shop to do the brake work, so honestly I can't recall if I had this problem before that...the mechanic should have been aware of the share system, it was a Ford dealership (though you're making me wonder now).
Thanks for the replies guys, I'll bleed the clutch and if that doesn't help I'll get it checked out.
Just for my own education, why is it that this issue only comes up if I'm in neutral and the clutch is engaged? If I just stop at a redlight, disengage the clutch, take it out of 3rd gear for example, I can put it any gear as long as I don't engage the clutch first while in neutral.

Originally posted by Stevedrivr:

Did this start shortly AFTER the brake work? The brakes and clutch share the same fluid reservoir. If air was introduced into the system during the brake work, they had to bleed the brakes at the calipers but they probably did not bleed the clutch cylinder. The mechanic may not be aware that they share the same system. Bleed the clutch and see if that fixes it. Just keep an eye on your fluid level during the bleeding. You don't want to reintroduce more air into the system by letting the level drop too low!! Otherwise you'll have re bleed the entire brake and clutch system!!

As far as your grinding question goes, no if the clutch is not disengaging you won't even be able to move the shift forks enough to get to the point of grinding. Grinding from bad synchros would only occur as you are getting into your chosen gear. If the clutch is not disengaging, you are not getting to that point



Last edited by krisztoforo; 11/27/03 04:01 PM.

'99 SVT (black)
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Very old posts suggest that a new clutch,plate,slave
cylinder and throw-out bearing is a cure. I have found
that by pushing in the clutch and engaging first gear
in a very quick motion seems to work better than slowly
depressing the pedal and then trying to push the lever
forward. I will keep you posted after I talk to a tramsmission shop.

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