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If the PATS module does not prove out at key-on, the red light will either be flashing or will remain illuminated.

There are several things that will keep the starter motor from being engaged.

See my post here: http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=329943&Forum=trouble&Words=starter&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=4&Limit=25&Old=1year&Main=326490&Search=true#Post329943

If your car is equipped with an aftermarket alarm, the starter disable relay may be the reason for the "No Crank" symptom.

Since you shorted out a wire and killed it, it is very likely that a fuse, breaker, link, or wire has been opened. It would be helful if you knew which wire it was that was shorted out.

In any event, a good technician with a meter (or test light) and the schematic should be able to find the open circuit quickly.

Pinpointing the exact circuit may be possible by asking and answering specific questions:

For example:

1) Do you hear the fuel pump run for 1-2 seconds after turning the key to RUN (you should)?

2) Do you hear any noise from the starter when the key is turned to START with the clutch fully depressed?

3) Inspect all the other electrical accessories and lights. Are there any that do not work? Which ones do work?

4) Does the PATS light blink normally when the key is away from the ignition?



Steve



98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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1. I dont hear the fuel pump running.
2. No I cant hear any thing from the starter.
3. All the lights and accerssories work.
4.The Pats light flashes when the key is out, And stops when the key is on

Thanks for all the help guys i really need it.


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IIRC, there is some kind of a big fuse, I think I've heard it called a mega fuse, that controls something around the engine. I think it is located separately from the regular fuse boxes. I'll try to read up on this tonight. Maybe someone else knows more about this fuse, and can chime in and help.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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ok if any one knows what he his talking about please inform us of it. Thanks Alot guys Keep um coming.


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The Mega-fuse is between the alternator and the battery. This would only keep it from charging, not starting.

You need to check connections from the battery bussbar to the auxillery fusebox. Possibly burned a wire or fusible link. Fusible links can go without destroying the insulation so take the battery out and ohm the power connections.


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You mentioned that all the fuses are good, but have you checked them with a meter to make certain? It's possible that a fuse can look good, and still not carry voltage. Some of those big fuses (or fusible links, or whatever they're called) in the fuse box under the hood are kinda hard to see clearly.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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No i have'nt had them checked with a meter, The guy that looked at put the ohm reader on the batter and he said it was good. I have no clue.


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Just putting the ohm meter on the battery won't really tell you anything about the fuses. Normally, when you cross or short a wire, the first thing that will happen is that you will shoot a fuse, so it's very likely that you have a blown fuse somewhere. I shorted a wire under the hood one time and shot the #10 fusible link. This was a large, light blue fusible link in the fuse box under the hood. When this fusible link blew, the engine would turn over easily, but it would not start.

Supposedly, you can look at the fuses or fusible links, and if the metal strip inside is melted or separated, the fuse is no good. Conversely, if the metal strip inside is intact, the fuse is supposed to be good. However, there can be a break in the metal that is not readily apparent to the eye. In this case, you can remove the fuse and check the conductance with an ohm meter from one leg of the fuse to the other. If the fuse is shot, you won't have any conductance through the fuse. Since you shorted the wire out enough to kill the engine, I suspect that if you really did blow the fuse, it will be readily apparent when you look at it.


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well ill try to test all the fuses then i hope this works.


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well i tested the fuses and there all good. Can any one help me please.


00 SVT Black pear paint spec stage 3,Quaife,short shifter,pro flow,cold air,opt throttle body vortech super charger, nitrous,pod with boost nitrous,fuel press,and air fuel,cowl hood,30lb jectors. flowmasters drilled slotted rotors
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