Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Sub Opinions please!

dave could u please explain fast bass 2 me cause i was thinkin my bass is probably faster then yours.wanna race

i betcha the bass on my tweeter is faster than your bass in your pond.

I just had this stupid argument with a bartender in Calgary. He was talking about his setup in his vette. Two 12s. I told him I was getting a 15. He told me, thats no good, the sounwaves are too big to put a 15 in a car, I could see a putting it in a suburban or something like that. A 12 has much smaller sound waves. Should I have just walked away? Eventually he just stopped talking to me.

Ok Ive been around car audio for about 6 years now, and competed for 2 in SPL only, but my main focus is SQ (sound quality). I read that someone mentioned running the ground wire from battery to the trunk. (I have god tips on wiring also)I highly advise you to stay away from that method! Try to make your ground run from your amp to the car chassis the shortest length as possible! Next for wiring sizes 8 agw is no good for some amps by themselves. Check with the amp reccomendations first. My Orion XTR1400 will melt 8 awg on that long of a run! Your main goal is to compliment the mid/highs in your car so its not as boring to listen to (my opinion) I can make any sub sound decent with the right install. And whoever wrote that "speaker A" sounded like crap playing midrange, why were you trying to play a midrange freq through a sub that should play bass in a reccomended 20 through 120-180hz anyways? Mine wont sound good playing a 1000hz note either. My best advice to you is to listen to what is available to you, maybe the shop has a install with those subs or someone you know has a friend with them. And BTW solos sound nice, but you need to feed them alot and the right amount of power!And I never knew the xpl were solos, but maybe Im wrong. 10"s or 12"s can sound just the same, but the 12"s can usually play lower hz than the 10"s. But now my first questions to ask you is your musical taste that was answered and what amp is going to run the sub/subs. And well if we really want to get technical we could throw in efficienty of the subs you choose to get the most spl per watt too :p

BTW its a B!tch to run 4 awg in the tours, and never run the rca's on same side of car as power.
Oh and this is by no means a flame to anyones post.

and what is a EBS enclosure?? maybe I call it something diff than you i dunno....

My experience with subs: I used to run one 10" MTX Thunder in a small carpeted box and it sounded like crap, maybe because of the amp i was driving it will, but in my opinion, if you're going to buy a sub(s) go all out. I now have 2 Rockford Punch 12's in a plexi bandpass box and they hit HARD. If you haven't already purchased the head unit, getting out with sub-outs is the best thing you can do.

You guys rule! (think kevin spacey playing with a remote control car in 'american beauty').

Thanks for all the advice... I think a single 12 might be the way to go. I'm looking for something that won't take up much trunk space, will sound good for jazz rock and some electronica, and something that won't cost me an arm and a leg.

As for what I've already got, I just (a couple of weeks ago) finished putting in my JVC KD-SH99 mp3 deck. It has a dedicated sub preout, so I know that part will be easy.

I have a couple more questions --

1) Do I run the remote turn-on for the amp down the right side with the RCA wires, or down the left side with the main power lines for the amp? Is there enough voltage/amperage in that line to cause interference with the audio signal?

2) Should I just say 'F**K IT!' and save up the dough to get a brand name sub professionally installed?

I enjoy doing things myself, but if this turns into a traumatic experience, I'll never be happy with the sub I put in.

Thanks again!

Brian

Best thing to do is run it with your power wire just to be safe.

Bleh,

A EBS enclosure is a ported enclosure with a larger than normal enclosure tuned extremely low. It will exhibit a plateau in the freq response after the rolloff begins. So instead of rolling off 4th order after the tuning freq, it drops 3 dBs, stays at the same SPL for an extra 1/2 an octave then rolls off. The result is extraordinarilly defined and clean bass without the boominess normally seen in a ported box. It ends up having the sound of a critically damped or maximally flat sealed system. The problem with them is they are not practical in a car.

The biggest reason why people find ported boxes to sound boomy is they go purchase a Q-logic box and throw some sub or another in there without any regard to the t/w parameters. Resulting in crappy sound.

I think you meant Thiele/Small parameters.

Exactly, though. Speaker enclosure design is important for good sounds quality, critical with any kind of ported enclosure.

Yes I agree totally. Ported boxes have to be designed totaly around the sub you buy and also be tuned correctly. Q logic just uses a basic middle of the road design for their boxes, which doesnt work for 95% of the subs out there. Now I know why I havent heard of them enclosures