You could unplug the MAF and do a test drive without it. The car will still run, although you will get a CEL. If the MAF is causing the 'bouncing', disconnecting it should eliminate it as a cause for the problem. Just an idea... If this is a clutch slip problem, it seems like observing the tach while duplicating the bounce should confirm what is happening.
Originally posted by tw0wheelin: You could unplug the MAF and do a test drive without it. ... If this is a clutch slip problem, it seems like observing the tach while duplicating the bounce should confirm what is happening.
good idea. just went and tried it. car didn't run all that well and the bouncing was the same. it's def. drivetrain.
i don't think the clutch is slipping, but something is bouncing, only things left to actually replace would be engine mounts, control arm bushings and then the clutch...
should i just do the engine "roll restrictors" first and then do the two "mounts" after?
i'm going to do the mounts without the inserts first just to see if i can isolate this problem. see if it's just part of the car or not...
Quote: should i just do the engine "roll restrictors" first and then do the two "mounts" after?
The roll restrictors are what control the fore and aft movement of the engine/tranny assembly. Since you already have svt mounts, it would be both cheaper and better to get a new rear mount and buy the Energy Suspension insert for the front mount.
From the mods/engine section of our site; scroll down to find info: Inserts
The E.S. insert is superior to the stock front mount, only cost about $18.00 as I recall, and lets you re-use the existing front housing. The actual engine "mounts" do very little as far as fore and aft movement are concerned. The engine/tranny assembly basicly "hangs" off of them and they do not wear much.
Former, now returned CEG'er!
95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0!
"Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
Originally posted by Oo.et.oO: one thing i've never been able to figure out is if the insert replaces the existing insert or if it fills the holes that exist in it...
The insert "plugs" the holes in the front restrictor, essentially giving you a solid front polyurethane mount.
1999 Red / Tan SVT
#1969 of 2760
Built 4/21/99
K&N, DMD, FMS Wires, ES Insert / Bushings, PF End Links
17" FSVT 5-Spokes
Factory Spoiler
35% Tint All Around
