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#777486 10/21/03 09:08 PM
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Fired it up late last night and drove it to work today!!

2002 Sable sourced 3L with 17K mile block (49.0 cc stock)
2.5L heads, ported and polished, with 3L valves (47.1 cc)
MSDS headers and modified Y-pipe (per earlier thread)
SVT stock Cat back
Coated intake, port matched
Fidenza aluminum flywheel/ new stock SVT clutch
DMD
Energy Suspension mount insert
Eibach's
BAT struts
Quaife
New shift Forks, MTL redline fluid

Everything all at once. 3 months with a bunch of diapers slowing me down.

Runs strong, no CEL's, perfect idle, I'm ecstatic. Actually it doesn't rip pavement like I'd hoped (too much is never enough), but it is smooth and fast. Grab a few gears, look down and see 70 mph when you expect 50 mph.

Rev wise, it just pulls and pulls up to 7K so far. With the 17K mile block, not much break-in to do. The usual 2.5L torque spike around 3700 RPM, is unnoticeable, just good big torque all the way up.

I was a bit worried about off the line launch in traffic with the possibly too light Fidenza, but it is just fine. Quaife nice and quiet, and even torque steer not too bad at all. Shift feel with Redline and new forks is WAY better.


#777487 10/21/03 09:43 PM
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Congrats. However, you should go a little easy on the clutch until it and the flywheel mate up to each other. Most aftermarket clutches recommend 300-500 miles of stop and go traffic before any serious thrashing commences.

Rick


Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L parts for sale
#777488 10/22/03 01:18 AM
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Yeah, but its a new SVT clutch so those are designed to seat quickly and not require long break-ins so nice customers don't ruin them on the first test drive.


Nice job by the way. You need to change your exhaust, I noticed a huge improvement up top by going to 2.5" exhaust. The stock one is really restrictive for a high reving breathing 3.0.
Everything else you did seems just perfect.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#777489 10/22/03 04:02 AM
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Congrats. Sounds like everything is running great.

Put some miles on it to break it in and then let us know how it dynos.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#777490 10/22/03 04:34 AM
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Originally posted by 99fordsvt:
Fired it up late last night and drove it to work today!!

2002 Sable sourced 3L with 17K mile block (49.0 cc stock)
2.5L heads, ported and polished, with 3L valves (47.1 cc)
MSDS headers and modified Y-pipe (per earlier thread)
SVT stock Cat back
Coated intake, port matched
Fidenza aluminum flywheel/ new stock SVT clutch
DMD
Energy Suspension mount insert
Eibach's
BAT struts
Quaife
New shift Forks, MTL redline fluid

Everything all at once. 3 months with a bunch of diapers slowing me down.

Runs strong, no CEL's, perfect idle, I'm ecstatic. Actually it doesn't rip pavement like I'd hoped (too much is never enough), but it is smooth and fast. Grab a few gears, look down and see 70 mph when you expect 50 mph.

Rev wise, it just pulls and pulls up to 7K so far. With the 17K mile block, not much break-in to do. The usual 2.5L torque spike around 3700 RPM, is unnoticeable, just good big torque all the way up.

I was a bit worried about off the line launch in traffic with the possibly too light Fidenza, but it is just fine. Quaife nice and quiet, and even torque steer not too bad at all. Shift feel with Redline and new forks is WAY better.






bring it to sears point tomarow and see what it will do


98 svt sil/blu 3.0 oval heads full P&P, msds headers,bat kit,2,1/2exhaust 30 inch glasspack and 2 spintech mufflers 14.78@94mph with my mechanical arm i can shift gears in less then a twentieth of a second for sale $7000
#777491 10/22/03 05:16 AM
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dont bash me but how do you correctly break in the car just change gears at 3.5k? and drive it like a grandmother? im getting ready to start my car this weekend and i want to drive it right for a little block only has 1500 miles..


99 T-RED 3L SVT Apillar Guages How-To 3L 98 CSVT SF/MB 4 SALE 7500 obo pm me
#777492 10/22/03 11:42 AM
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this is how i plan on breaking mine in (feel free to comment):

put in dino oil, drive 500 miles under 3K, city driving that is.

change oil, dino oil again. for the next 500 miles gradually increase max rpms. once this 500 is done, change with mobil 1 and have some fun

btw i have brand new +1mm pistons to break in


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
#777493 10/22/03 12:51 PM
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The break-in process differs. If you've done a rebuild on the engine, such as Russell, you need to start the car, bring it to operating temp, shut it off and change the oil oil to get rid of all the assembly lube. Run it 500 or so miles and do an oil change again. Stop and go driving with a mix of highway is good break in. Don't keep the revs at one level for more than 15-20 minutes until you've got over 500 miles on it. Other than that, the break in I was suggesting is more for the clutch than the engine. People have two different schools of thought on the engines. Run em hard and they always run hard, or break em in easy. Either way, it's good insurance to change the oil out several times during the break in to get rid of all the extra junk in the engine from a rebuild.

Rick


Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L parts for sale
#777494 10/22/03 01:02 PM
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so a total of 3 oil changed? ok ill do that. and i did cover everything in assembly lube


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
#777495 10/22/03 01:30 PM
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I put in Mobil 1, warmed it up, and took it easy for about 10 miles. Then nailed it hard. That's a good part of the used low mile 3.0L block option.

Yes - valves and seats are new, but they don't breakin in the same manner as rings and bores. Cams from original SVT engine, plus rollers also reduce break in need for that.


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