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Anybody have the specs for the front control arm bolts?
I know it's a grade 8 bolt, but what is their length, size, and threads per inch?
I am going to cut the bolts to remove the driver side control arm (instead of dropping the subframe).
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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go to the closest ford dealer and they should have the info at the parts counter as you can probably get the part there
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Originally posted by silvercsvt:
go to the closest ford dealer and they should have the info at the parts counter as you can probably get the part there
Actually I've already done that. They would have to special order them in and it would cost about $56  for the four bolts/nuts. They recommended going to a machine shop or industrial supply place.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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I'm in the process of replacing the control arms on my '98 'Tour. I'm getting the dealer to do it...hard labour sucks.  Where in New Brunswick are you? I'm in Saint john.
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Cool, I'm in Saint John, too. Getting Downey's or Parkway to do it?
I'm just doing the driver side control arm now, a bit of a pain - I had to cut one of the bolts (second from front) - even with droping the subframe. I had a real hard time getting the two smaller bolts out, they seem to be corroded right in there. I'm drilling part of one out. I also think that the front left subframe nut is loose too, so I may have to figure out how to get access to it as well.
Altogether a time consuming job. Which would have cost me a bundle if I got someone else to do. (Did I mention that I had to cut through the driverside access panel in the footwell to get at the rear SF bolt?)
Anyway, let me know how much your bill was - if you don't mind. You might see me around town, I have a tan coloured countour ('95 SE), with the factory aloy rims, rear spoiler, ground effects, MTX, and leather.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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I got Parkway to do it for $500. That's both, parts, labour, everything. I'm stupid when it comes to that stuff.  That's cool you're in SJ. We need more Contour people around here.  You might of noticed me around...hard to miss.  If you see me around say Hi. 
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Originally posted by Nathan:
They recommended going to a machine shop or industrial supply place.
Is there one near you? I get all my bolts from a local hardware store with a good metric selection. I don't remember offhand what the specs were, though. Probably M10 or M12, maybe 65mm. If you can find a store, just take in what's left of the bolts you cut off. For the length, remember to take into account that when you feed the bolt from the bottom you need it a little shorter than stock so it doesn't stick out of the nut too far.
'00 CSVT #570 - 3L hybrid
'95 Mystique - 2001 3L
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Originally posted by A2Steve:
Originally posted by Nathan:
They recommended going to a machine shop or industrial supply place.
Is there one near you? I get all my bolts from a local hardware store with a good metric selection. I don't remember offhand what the specs were, though. Probably M10 or M12, maybe 65mm. If you can find a store, just take in what's left of the bolts you cut off. For the length, remember to take into account that when you feed the bolt from the bottom you need it a little shorter than stock so it doesn't stick out of the nut too far.
I believe the specs are:
2x M12x75mm (10.9 same as grade 8), and
2x M14x75mm (10.9 same as grade 8)
I can get these at our local CarQuest, but they don't carry the grade 8 (10.9) ones, only the lower grade (8.8) ones. I am concerned that these might not be strong enough . Please comment
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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Honestly, don't screw around with questionable brake and suspension hardware. I think I would just pay the $56 to FORD for the correct hardware, as overpriced as it probably is. Having on of these bolts break when you need it the most would be far more expensive...
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Wait!! Donā??t cut the bolts!
You do not have to drop the sub frame to replace the drivers control arm. All you need is a jack and a block of wood under the tranny. Remove the battery and holder. Then remove (with the jack under the tranny taking up a little weight) the front mount through bolt. With the bolt removed, you can raise and lower the tranny to slip the bolts out. I donā??t remember which ones but I had to rest the tranny on the sub frame for one and jack it up for the other. It might be easer to remove the axle for the one under it, but I jacked the tranny full up and wrestled it out.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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